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How to stop your knitted hem from flipping up.

August 12, 2016 thecraftsessions
Terrible photo but it's all I have. The hem flipping was extreme. It flared out like a penguin flipper in Mary Poppins.

Terrible photo but it's all I have. The hem flipping was extreme. It flared out like a penguin flipper in Mary Poppins.

This is a total bugger when it happens. You are knitting, or you've finished knitting, and you notice that you have the flip. So what to do? I have a couple of tricks that I thought you might like.

Let's start with why it happens.

The basic reason is a change in tension between the two types of knitting, whether this is a ribbed hem or a garter hem.

When you rib you end up with more fabric than when you knit stockinette. Think about the process of making a rib. In between each "rib" you need to switch from knitting to purling and each time you do that you move the yarn from the front to the back (or vice versa) before making the next stitch. That means you have a tiny sliver of "extra" yarn between each stitch (for k1p1 rib) or two stitches (for k2p2 rib). The tiny sliver of extra yarn means as you end up with more yarn and therefore more fabric than if you were to knit the stitches in stockinette. The extra fabric causes the rib to flare, and at the point at which you change from stockinette to rib it flips.

It is all about tension. Change the tension, cause a flip.

It can happen with other stitches like garter too. When you go from a garter hem to stockinette you change the tension in the fabric. (To fix a flipping garter hem I normally use one of the first two tricks below. Whereas to fix a flipping rib hem I might use any of the three.)

The flip is pretty much only a hemline thing, rather than a sleeve thing or a neckline thing. That is because on both a sleeve and a neckline you have the extra tension, created by the body position in reference to the sweater, that means that flipping isn't such an issue. The only exception I have really found is on a loose fitting sleeve. (In which case I use one of the first two tricks below.)

Anyhoo, the whole problem is annoying but really fixable provided you are willing to experiment and rip a row or two here and there.

How do you stop it.

I often combine more than one trick.

The main thing you need to do is to decrease the amount of fabric in your band. You can do this using Trick 1 and Trick 2. Both of these methods decreases the amount of yarn/fabric you have in the band thereby pulling it in a little and decreasing the hem's desire to flip.

Trick 3 is specifically for rib hems. It involves altering the tension at the change point by reducing the amount of fabric at the point of the flip by slipping the knit stitches of the rib.

This hem was tamed by simply changing engaging with Trick 2.

This hem was tamed by simply changing engaging with Trick 2.

Trick 1: Decrease the number of stitches

You decrease the number of stitches by doing a k2together every few stitches [k2tog kX] across the row on the last row of stockinette or the first row of rib ( for a top down sweater) or on the first row of stockinette (for a bottom up sweater). This is part art and part science.

There are no rules to exactly what the repeat should be. I vary my repeat from a [k2tog, k8] which was often the recommendation by Elizabeth Zimmerman right down to a [k2tog k3] for a straight sleeve. 

How do I figure it out? I often try something, see what it looks like, and rip it out if it isn't tight enough or is too tight. So get started by choosing a repeat in between and try it.

Rib Band: I often do [k2tog k8] when going into a rib band because the very nature of the rib is that it pulls inwards. Sometimes this still isn't enough to pull the band in when going to garter.

Garter Band: The last sweater I made was a Granny's Favourite (which has garter bands) and I did it on the sleeves and the hem. I think I did a [k2tog k3] for the sleeve which sounds like quite a big decrease but it actually worked very well. I may have made it [k2tog, k4] for the body....

Please note that it does not matter whether the repeat fits into the number of stitches you have on the needle. Just keep doing the repeat till you get to the end of the row.

Trick 2 - Decrease the needle size

This is often used in patterns for hat bands or sweater bands but I also often use it even if the pattern doesn't recommend it. For example often my finished Granny's Favourites end up with stretched out necks because of rough-and-ready small girl children. So I always knit the neck band on a 3.5mm or even a 3.25mm band to make it a little smaller. This example obviously isn't about a flip but it has the same principle in that we are trying to reduce the amount of fabric created for the band. I often also do it for bands at the bottom of sweaters.

Trick 3 - Slip Stitches

This is a trick that works really well with a rib band. I generally use this one one where I am shifting from a rib band into stockinette - so bottom up sweaters. On the change row, rather than just knitting the whole row, I slip each of the knit stitches and then knit all the purl stitches. I have used this trick on both a k1p1 and a k2p2 rib band. The flip doesn't happen because you are changing the tension by making it tighter at the flip point with all the slipped stitches.

A non flipping hem. That I am happy with. Near enough is good enough and completionism rather than perfection. I adore this jumper.

A non flipping hem. That I am happy with. Near enough is good enough and completionism rather than perfection. I adore this jumper.

You can still see the tension change between the band and the body as it dips in. This could be the result of taking out too many stitches....?

You can still see the tension change between the band and the body as it dips in. This could be the result of taking out too many stitches....?

An Example - James III

James III is the sweater that inspired this post. I got to the end of knitting it and finished the band only to block it and realise that the flipping (which sometimes will block out!) was extreme. I ripped the band out, put the zillion stitches back on the needle and started again. I did a combination of Trick 1 and Trick 2. I changed my needle size from a 3.75mm to a 3.25mm on the first row of rib and also did a repeat of [k2tog, k1, p2, k2, p2] which means that I decreased one stitch every 9 which is roughly 10%. It isn't perfect but it is much much better.

I'm happy to answer questions if you have them? And would love to hear if you have any other tricks you use?

And if you don't then here is wishing you a hem-flip-free future.

Felicia x

In How To Tags knittingtipsandtricks, knitting
13 Comments

Around the Traps - Baby Sweaters

November 25, 2014 thecraftsessions
Cabled Cardigan from Lullaby Knits. I suspect the baby girl receiving this sweater may require some Liberty baby bloomers - Yes?

Cabled Cardigan from Lullaby Knits. I suspect the baby girl receiving this sweater may require some Liberty baby bloomers - Yes?

It's baby season around here (not for me) which means baby knitting. Nothing more fun that that. So I thought I would do a little roundup of some of my favourite/new go-to patterns for baby knitting.

Starting with the sweater in the photos. It comes from the book Lullaby Knits. While I wouldn't say this book was for beginners (as the gauge information tends to be fairly confusing which could lead to some wacky results) I do think this sweater and others in the book are gorgeous! This sweater ranks as one of my favourite baby knits ever.

Cabled Cardy from Lullaby Knits

Cabled Cardy from Lullaby Knits

Other new/exciting to me baby patterns are:

The whole range from Paelas - which is a collaboration between three women in Norway. Check out their individual instagram feeds which you can find from their About page. So beautiful. I am particularly taken by the Flash top and know I need one for one of my girls.

The I've-never-made-it-but-always-meant-to Baby Fairisle Cardigan from Purl Soho. I saw a version of this a little while ago that I can't get out of my head. I was thinking that maybe I should make a version with the scraps of my colourwork cardy - just need to find a mother that doesn't mind semi-scratchy wool for her small person. 

The Pebble Vest by Nikol Lohr - possibly the most practically useful baby knit ever. I finally got around to putting the buttons on one I made ages ago and sent it along to a baby this week. 

Silver Fox by Lisa Chemery - I love the fit on this little cardy and the icord edging. I might take out a few of the details when I made it to make it a smidge simpler.

Another similar pattern is super sweet Eole by the lovely Nadia of IttyBitty. I saw one of these in real life of Amy of Sunspun's little girl recently. So gorgeous! 

I'm still totally obsessed by this bonnet here (which I have made a few times) and this cardy here. Classic knits that are super fun to knit - I will be making them again. 

And while I could keep going I'm going to stop soon - but what list would be complete without the Immie Tee by Carrie Bostick Hoge and Clara by Karin Vestergaard Methiesen

Alrighty….stopping now. Tell me your favourites. I would love some new ideas!

Felicia x

In Around The Traps, Best Of, Inspiration Tags knitting
14 Comments

The post about steeking!

August 1, 2014 thecraftsessions
Unfinished but the steek has been cut! Knitting and photo by Felicia Semple.

Unfinished but the steek has been cut! Knitting and photo by Felicia Semple.

So I finally found the time and space to cut the knitting. The delay was more about finding time when I had clean fingernails, and someone to take a photo for me, than an issue with the steek. Long term camping is not always very glamourous. Especially in the rain - and we have had a lot of rain in the last week. The dirt gets so stuck under your nails, and ingrained in your finger tips that only a good soaking will get it out. And there is nowhere to soak.

I digress. With the help of my middle child, I cut the steek! And I have to say that it is one of the most fun things you can do as a knitter. Even as I write this down I can hear that it sounds a bit nanna. But it's not. It feels devilish. Like smoking at the milk bar around the corner from your house when you were 16. Not that I would have done something like that ;).  

More digression.

This post is not a how-to. More a progress report. 

I have posted a short instagram video clip if you want to watch or have not yet seen a steek live. 

And if you were after a how-to I have two options for you.

1. In person. Sadly/happily our Steeking workshop, which is taught by Julia Billings at this year's retreat, is fully booked out. I'm thinking we should possibly repeat it next year as it was so popular! In the mean time you can experience Jules teaching steeking at Sunspun in Melbourne in October. Please contact them for the details.

2. Online. Have a look at the lovely Kate Davies site where she shows you how it is done. She also has a great post on different types of finishes here.

There is also a fantastic series on steeking by Eunny Jang in her defunct blog. This was how I first got my steeking confidence. It is a great read, as is much of the rest of her site.

The cardigan still isn't finished - which I like. I like that it has been my companion over these last four months as we have travelled about. And while I have knitted numerous other short-term projects over our time away, nothing that has the love that has gone into this work. This project has meaning to me. I learnt, I persisted and I'm hoping to love it. 

It still needs button bands and an extra motif added to each sleeve to make them a little longer. I'll let you know when I'm done. 

Have you ever steeked anything? Does the idea of steeking make you feel the joy? Or some fear….

Felicia x

PS. Only one week to go until registration closes! Feel free to email me if you have any questions about workshop availability.

In How To, Inspiration Tags knitting, knittingtipsandtricks, steeking, colourwork
12 Comments

What crafting looks like today….

July 25, 2014 thecraftsessions
Dodgy iphone photo at the Colosseum today.

Dodgy iphone photo at the Colosseum today.

So here I am again without a finished post and it is getting too late to finish the one I have half done - it will come Monday. So I thought I would share a little of what crafting time looks like for me at the moment. 

We are currently in Rome - it is a little bit sticky and we have been taking the kids to "the" sights. As it is now the European summer, that involves people and queues that are somewhat unimaginable in sunny Australia.  We limit ourselves to one thing a day (because we know our/their limits), before returning to the flat for some reading or colouring. There are few spaces in my day when I am alone and even fewer where there isn't something that needs to be done. The fella and I were talking yesterday about the fact that "freestyle overland travel" is not exactly the same thing as a "relaxing holiday". We were a little naive methinks about what life would look like on the road ;).

So crafting - Life as it currently stands means that knitting is not exactly relaxing-with-a-cup-of-tea crafting. I'm not really able to knit in the campsite/flat due to the aforementioned jobs. Instead I've moved to mobile crafting in order to scratch the itch.  Crafting is more along the lines of standing in a queue, with small people who are hungry or need to go to the toilet, using knitting as a way to keep on smiling. And car knitting - oh how I love car knitting! We leave tomorrow to get back to camping which means there will be a few hours of click-clack which I am super excited about. 

I know that school holidays have just finished at home so I am guessing that crafting slowed down for a bit? I would love to hear about how you fit your making into your holidays….or are you infinitely more sensible and give it up until some space returns?

Felicia x 

Tags knitting
2 Comments

An update on our September Retreat

July 22, 2014 thecraftsessions
Seamless Hat Class

Seamless Hat Class

So today we have a few announcements about our September Retreat. It has been a while since I’ve given you an update and I have a couple of important things to tell you.

The first is I've been getting some emails asking if we still have space. And we do!! Not heaps but some. We are fully booked in some classes but there are still great options available for you whether you are a seamstress or a knitter or a crocheter or interested in natural dyeing. Please feel free to email me if you have any questions.

The second thing is to let you know if you were thinking of coming (and I know there are still quite a few of you!) that that we are closing registration on August 8th – so about 4 weeks before the event. This allows us time to finalise our preparations, and our teachers the time to finalise any materials they need to prepare for the event. 

One of our teachers Kirsten Johnstone's new pattern for girls Medaki! There is still some space in Kirsten's seamless hat class at the retreat.

One of our teachers Kirsten Johnstone's new pattern for girls Medaki! There is still some space in Kirsten's seamless hat class at the retreat.

And the final thing today is to let you know that the lovely Kirsten Johnstone of Assemblage, j(ust one of our internationally respected knitwear designers!) one of our teachers, has sent me some pictures of the hat pattern she has created for her Seamless Hat class. When we were putting together the descriptions for the classes she hadn't really written the pattern so I posted pictures of another one of her hats as a place holder. So below are photos of the finished hat! I got them a little while ago, posted one on Facebook a while ago but forgot to post it here - Apologies! Kirsten has also just released the pattern - called the Go Hat - for sale on Ravelry.

So this workshop would be the perfect class for advanced beginners/intermediate knitters who want to work on bettering their skills. The hat pattern is fully reversible, has five design options (the black and grey in the right hand photo is colour blocked) and uses a single skein of worsted wool. You would be learning a provisional cast-on (which is not as scary as it sounds and very very useful!), about knitting seamlessly in the round, about decreasing shaping to the crown and i-cord bind off. I particularly love i-cord bind off. Incredibly satisfying and such a neat result. 

As well as being a great designer Kirsten is a top woman and great teacher. I feel really lucky we were able to convince her to teach!!

Felicia x

In The Craft Sessions, The Retreat Tags knitting
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Welcome! I'm Felicia - creator of The Craft Sessions and Soul Craft Festival.

This blog aims to celebrate the connection between hand-making and our well-being.
These posts aim to foster a love of hand-making and discuss the ways domestic handcrafts elevate our everyday.

I love the contributions you make to this space via your comments and learn so much from each and every one. x

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