Getting bottom up sweaters to fit beautifully

So I'm away on a bit of a road trip. About 9000k in the last three weeks - so fun. And the super lucky thing about it is that I have got to share the driving, which means a fair whack of knitting time each and every day. Obviously the parenting malarkey has got in the way a little bit of the quiet-uninterupted-knitting-time-on-a-road-trip you may be imagining. But I have been productive none the less.

And so - I've finished Lila. The lovely Lila as she is known in our household. And lovely she is.

All details of my version can be found on Ravelry.

I really think Lila is the perfect pattern - and Carrie Bostick Hoge it's designer, is a genius. Genius!

What I love about the pattern is it's all round cosiness and comfort - while still retaining an elegant shape. Elegant isn't a word I use too often about something in my wardrobe but in this case it is appropriate. Lila may just be the perfect sweater for autumn, winter and spring. I see myself wearing it over a frock and tights, or maybe a Wiksten Tank dress and jeans. And over my pyjamas - totally perfect for that.

That said - while I love the result - my (first) version is a fairly major stuff up. I am trying to channel my mistakes are how you learn post and forget that I wrote a blog post about how to choose the perfect sweater pattern to enable you to make the sweater you really want.  

I wanted ease - for the cosiness factor. The lovely woman with the curls in the photos has a few inches of ease and it looked great. What could go wrong?

Well friends, I chose the wrong size. See the critical bit with any oversized jumper, in my opinion, is that it fits you really well around the shoulders. This doesn't. It is sloppy and the arms are too big. I recovered it slightly after blocking by committing a cardinal knitting sin, and throwing it in the dryer. And it did pop back into size a little. 

This shows too big sleeves and underarms...and probably the body too...

This shows the extra fabric around the underarm. 

So how much ease is too much? I am have a 35" bust and I chose a 38" size in the pattern and ended up with a 38". And for me that is too big. And the lesson here is that for me I need a pattern that has little to no ease at the bust when the actual sweater is oversized. 

But after saying all that I love it, and it was fun to knit and so am very happy to do it again. I see myself with other colours and will be knitting this again. Perhaps in lovely soft grey like the sample. Yum.

Anyway there was a point to this post and it was to tell you about how I knit my bottom up sweaters to give them a better chance of fitting. Knitting a sweater from the bottom up means that you can't try it on as you go. And trying it on as you go (like you are able to do when you knit top down) can make it much easier to get the fit right.

Getting bottom up sweaters to fit beautifully.

The order you knit a bottom up sweater is the critical bit. Normally you knit the sleeves and body up to the underarm, before joining them and knitting the yoke. The issue with this is that you don't know the length of the yoke (as it hasn't yet been knit) so your body or sleeve length might not finish where you want them too. 

Huh? How does that work? Well the pattern might state a yoke length BUT your row gauge might be very different from the pattern, and therefore the length of your actual yoke could be anything from 1 to even 3 inches different to the pattern. What this means in reality is that a pattern that is supposed to fit right under your undearms doesn't, and instead ends up about 2 inches away from your underarm. This means that your sleeves will be two inches longer than the pattern states. 

I hope that makes sense? Row gauge is the key and these days it isn't always stated AND I personally have never been able to get the same row gauge a pattern states. It seems to be a tricky thing to achieve - to get the same row and stitch gauge as someone else.

The difference of an inch or two of sleeve length can be really annoying. Say you like a sweater that you can pull down over your hands in winter, an inch or two shorter than necessary results in futile pulling. Or conversely you may be the kind of person who hates sleeves around your wrists. That extra inch or two could drive you nuts.

Love this sleeve length for a cosy winter jumper.

And once the body and sleeves have been knitted it is very difficult to fix without totally pulling out the yoke or some other crazy long-winded work around.

So what to do? How to get the sleeve and the body to the right length? 

This is tricky but I have a super simple answer! The most common issue is sleeve length so initially I am going to deal with that but I apply the same thing to body length* at the bottom.

Step 1: 

Choose the right size - Ha!
And swatch and wash your swatch. Blocking your sweater can drastically change the fit of your garment. The more you know about how your yarn will behave at a given gauge the better. So if you know that your swatch grows in length by about 10% then you need to knit your sleeves 10% shorter than your desired length!!

Step 2:

Knit the body up to the underarms. See below for clarification *.

Step 3: 

Don't knit the sleeves!!

Step 4: 

Read the pattern and look for the stitch count for when you knit to the top of the sleeve - so just before you join the body and the sleeves. Provisionally cast on that number of stitches using waste yarn.

There are hundreds of tutuorials for a provisional cast on. I am lazy and just cast on the right number of stitches, then purl one row. I then cut it off with scissors.....lazy lazy but I can never seem to remember provisional cast-ons without my friend youtube on hand and that is just a hassle.

Step 5:

Join the body and the sleeves as the pattern suggests BUT rather than joining actual sleeves join your provionally cast on sleeve stitches to the actual body.

Step 6:

Knit the yoke as described.

Step 7:

Undo the provional cast on (cut it off in my case) and knit the sleeves top-down. This ensures you get the sleeves to fit because you can try it on and modify the decreases as appropriate to your arms. AND you can ensure you get the sleeves the right length. Yihaa!

So - a simple answer that you can use on any bottom up in the round pattern, to help you get a great fit.

Wishing you a lovely week! 

Felicia x

* This trick also works with the body length and fit if want more control over those. In that case you would just do a provisional cast on for the sleeve and the body. Join them together using the working yarn and then knit your yoke. Then knit your body and your sleeves top down. Best of both worlds. Bottom up yoke and top down sleeves and body.

An update on The Craft Sessions 2014

So a super quick one today as I am still away and really struggling with internet access. I feel like things have been a bit quiet about this year's event - September 5-7th just in case you were wondering - and I just wanted to let you know that it wasn't because we weren't working on it. We are planning our little hearts out! 

We have some wonderful new teachers and many new classes. Mainly new classes in fact. There are only one or two classes that we are repeating (due to super popular demand) and there is so much goodness there. I am bursting to tell you about what we have planned. So very good!

As we did last year - we are focusing for the most part, on traditional hand crafts that are fibre based. We know we can bring you classes that are taught in ways that make these skills and techniques more accessible. Classes that focus on empowering you, and increasing the joy you get from your chosen craft. Again, we have a fantastic balance for all levels of crafter - new crafters right through to those that are already super skilled. There are also plenty of opportunities to dabble in a new-to-you craft. 

In addition to all the new - many of last year's teachers are coming back, which I am so very happy about, as they were fantastic. This was confirmed in spades by the feedback we got from last year's participants. 

So some "dates" - sometime around mid March we will be announcing this year's lineup. I'll let you know as soon as we have them up via the mailing list and then the blog. We will give you a registration date as soon as the classes are finalised.

I can't wait to share it with you. 

Felicia x

PS. If there was a class that you didn't make last year but are desperate to do then leave a comment. I'd love to hear it. I have a week or two left of wiggle room before things get locked down.....speak up lovely people!

Part 1 - Knitting Tips and Tricks - Counting

Another new ongoing mini-series prompted and inspired by the lovely Jen and Martine - my mates who I have been assisting through the process of beginner knitting. Working with them has made me realise that there are so many things about knitting (and also sewing but that is for another day) that it isn't possible to learn in books. And it is really valuable stuff. The kind of stuff you learn from experience and experimenting. From being in the right place at the right time with the right knitter. Or picking a pattern that usefully tells you how to do something. So much of knitting is assumed knowledge and I am only realising through working with them all that I actually know more than I think I do. It's the little things.

And so I have decided that occasionally, as I think of them, I will write them down for you in the hope they help you.

First up we are going to do counting. An oft overlooked annoying point for knitters. Counting stitches, counting gauge and counting rows. I can make it easier.

1. Counting stitches

This is possibly the best "trick" I know and it isn't even a trick. But it will change your life if you are a knitter!

I have no idea if I made it up or I read it somewhere. My apologies for not crediting the genius that came up with it (if there was one), but I have been doing it so long I don't know to not do it y'know?

Doing a stitch count to check you are on track is one of the only times where I condone counting in knitting. Generally I think you should learn to read your knitting and so there should be little reason to count. Stitch counts here and there however, are essential. Really important. 

The number of times early on I had to count my 300 stitches (my first project was Birch) and kept loosing count, over and over and over again and taking for-e-ver. Well you probably don't need the details. Incredibly frustrating, 1,2,3,4,5, .....145,146.....

Later in my knitting career I started counting in twos. 2,4,6,...you get the picture. Still loosing count and still wasting my life and my knitting time.

So the trick! - the trick is to count in FIVES!! Yes fives. I swear this is life changing.

Your eyes can actually clock five stitches at a time. They really can - five stitches look a certain way. They make sense to the eyes and make it so much quicker to count and much much harder to loose your place. You may need a small amount of practice but you can pick this up really quickly and it will save you SOO much time. All about the joy!

2. Counting your gauge

I often hear of people struggling to count their gauge and so I thought I would share what I do which makes it super easy. You just need a few sewing pins, a ruler or tape measure of some description and you are good to go.

Lay your swatch on a bed/couch/something firm but squishy. Take out your tape measure and lie it towards the top of your swatch. Make sure that you follow the line of stitches across from your first stitch so you are measuring along the same row and not crossing rows. 

Mark out the start and finish of your 10cm/4" with pins making sure that you start on the left hand side of a V - see our Learn to Read Your Knitting post - Part 1 if this doesn't make sense. Put your final pin in exactly where the 10cm/4inch mark is. 

Mark the start and the end, making sure you begin on the left hand side of a V.

I find it easier to use a different colour pin to mark each 5 stitches. Look for the Vs.

Leaving the ruler/tape measure in place put a pin in every 5 stitches. You can do this easier because you know that you are looking for the Vs - right. Five Vs then a pin and then another five Vs etc until you reach the 10cm/4inch mark.

Leave the pins in and then count the number of left over stitches between the last marker for a five and the final pin that marks 10cm/4inches. Make sure that you count 1/2 stitches and even 1/4 stitches at the end if you have them. Be as accurate as you can. 

And here is the critical bit....Repeat towards the bottom of the swatch. It also helps if you do it before and after you have washed your swatch. This tells you what gauge you will be getting when you are knitting, as well after it has been blocked.

Here is another example just because ...

This shows that we have 3 and 3/4 stitches in the last bit. Giving us 23.75 stitches as the gauge.

One final example. This large gauge knitting often is tricky because the yarn stretches so much. Make sure it is relaxed when you count. And don't do what I am doing in the picture and counting when it is on the needle....

3. Counting rows

In the Learn to Read Your Knitting - Part 2 post we talked about counting rows. The best way I've found is to mark the first V you are counting with a pin in the hole of the stitch. Then stretch the fabric slightly before using the needle tip to count the Vs going upwards. Stretching the fabric width-wise and length-wise makes the individual stitches easy to see. You can also use pins here to mark 5 rows to make it easier, or you have a lot of rows to count.

Same two examples for you - which I like because they are both lightly hairy yarn (both contain alpaca) and are slightly harder to read - which is good because you can see that using this stretching pin "trick" you can easily see the stitches.

Counting the Vs.

The other thing that will help is to put a contrasting colour on the table behind the knitting when you are trying to count. Then when you stretch the knitting you can more clearly see the holes. If you have light coloured knitting use a dark fabric and vice versa.

I didn't realise before I wrote the post but the key to counting is 5.....who knew?

I really hope that was helpful. Try the counting 5s thing. It really is lifechanging. Let me know if you like it.

Felicia x

How to get better at colour!

So colour is a part of making that I find hard. Possibly the hardest. I have the feeling I am not alone in this, so I thought I would tell you about the little colour journey I have been making over the last year, and what I have found that has been helping.

Unlike other parts of crafting that may involve using technique or a pattern where I know what to do, colour feels a bit unknown, a bit unsure. I lack a bit of confidence and so spend far to much time thinking about what to do. Which annoys me. Especially because more and more of the things I am doing, involves making colour choices – be that knitted colourwork or quilting. And so, for the last couple of years I have been trying to figure it out. Trying to learn some more about colour in theory, but also about what it is that I like colourwise.  I still need a lot more practice – but I have found some things that have helped with the process of choosing colour, that I thought I would share with you. 

But first, as always, a quick description of the problem. So, I go into the fabric store searching for something particular for a project. While I am there, something bright and shiny captures my attention and I do the odd bit of purchasing. I come out with a stack of shiny things that make me happy on the day. A week or three later, I might be inspired by some wonderful persons style on the interwebs and think "right-o, I’m off to the cupboard". But there is nothing there I want to use. It is all too patterned, too bright, too XYZ. I look around my home or in my kids wardrobes and they are full of bright patterned things. I want to use something calmer/bluer/more-neutrally but that doesn’t translate on purchasing day for some reason. Which means a cupboard of bright and shiny. And then, because I feel I should use what I have, I then make with what I have. Bright, patterned (and also pretty) but not necessarily the direction I would really like to head. I need to put in more thought and more planning. 

And then there is my wardrobe. I had a pile of small kids (3) in just over 4 years which meant that I went from having a wardrobe I liked, that was full of colour (still mainly blue but colour none the less) to wearing black trakkies and a black maternity top almost day in day out for a year or three. Yes – I (sadly?/happily?) admit I was that woman covered in sick with a exhausted shocked look on her face for a few years. So now I am out the other side, but I am still trying to figure out what I like wearing again. And it is tricky. I find myself being super safe and/or just plain lazy. And I want to fix it, which means I need to fix my colour issue. I have an entire wardrobe that is just blue. Safe, boring, gorgeous blue.

These two issues sound almost contradictory but they kindof aren't. I've lost my confidence that I will choose things I will like in a year. And I feel like I keep buying either things that are safe - or the complete opposite where I break out and buy something that is a too shiny/crazy/bright. Arrrghhh....

And then there is the issue that colour is a much trickier proposition for crafters (as opposed to artists). Even when I take the time to figure out what I want, I can't necessarily get it. Artists are often able to mix/make the colour they want. Crafters are often limited to the colours they can buy (and yes of course you can dye but I'm lacking the time at this stage of life). Sometimes you want that particular shade with just a little more XXX to it. Incredibly frustrating or a limitation to be worked with?

So without further complaining, here it is.....

Lessons I have learned that help with colour

1. Your visual diary is key

I wrote the post a little while ago about how all crafters need a visual diary and this is where it gets super useful. I do two things on pinterest that really help. I keep a board called craft – colours where I pin random things where I love the combination of colours. I go to this board for inspiration whenever I am starting a new project. While I am there I also edit this board to try to find images that stand the test of time. 

Trying to work some colour back into my summer wardrobe. Still a bit stuck on the blues.....at least it is a bit brighter??

Clothing-wise my main colour loves haven’t changed that much over my life, but I also know that I get comfortable. I get a bit scared of branching out – which leads to boredom and then wildly inappropriate purchasing when I feel the need to be less boring. Urgh. What is needed is some considered thought. The alternative is to stick with the blue/grey thing I have going on - which I am feeling is no longer an option. Pinning on the colour board and then combining the ideas I find with the ideas found on my clothing board are helping me to look at other things I might like. One of my latest purchases includes a sweaters worth of dark orange/rusty wool (in the top photo) to make Cinnamon Girl based initially on this image. And I have just made a lovely orange Lila (no proper photos of my version but there is one on instagram). Over time I have found more and more images on the page that have this type of combination. I think I may love it. Controversial choice for me - and choosing this involved a bit of bravery and a bit of thought - and a bit of time to make sure that orange/rust wasn't just a passing phase. 

The other key thing I have started doing is going through boards like the textiles board or my clothing board and analysing what themes are common. For example by looking at my textiles board I have realised that I like particular types of quilts that a fair bit of contrast or a clever use of value (see below).

I am also using it to choose quilt colours that sing. Once I have a project in mind I then also use the pretty colours board to see if there is something that grabs me as a starting point.

2. Develop your ideas before you start

Anna has been working on me about this. Crafting isn’t art. You aren’t doing a painting whereby you may be able to paint over a mistake. When you are quilting or sewing you are often cutting your fabric up. And cutting means more consideration is needed before the project starts. By doing this you can avoid costly fabric errors.

Anna suggested that the way to go about developing an idea involves mocking it up using any artform you are comfortable with. Draw it, colour it, paint it and for me she came up with "collage it" (drawing and painting aren't my strong suits). I was sent off the the paint store with my existing fabrics to collect swatches that matched. I could then play around with other swatches to determine if I could find some that worked. Due to the aforementioned limitation around colour choice this will involve some flexibility but at least I would then know what I was aiming for.

The other thing that this process allowed is for development of the form of the project. When sewing a garment I know what the finished garment would look like – I’m working to a pattern often. With the development of a quilt this allows me to look at shape, proportion and form before cutting into precious fabric.

3. Value is important

One of the key things about colour theory for crafters is often value. This is especially true when talking about colourwork for crochet or knitting and for quilting. Simple way to do this is to take a photo with your phone of the possible choices of yarn or fabric and then turn it to black and white. Then you can see if you are getting the contrast (or not) that you want. The quilt below is a great example. The value of the lighter too fabrics is too similar for what I want to do but I am was a bit stuck. I'm stuck with the fabrics as my kid chose them and they are what I have. So instead I was playing around with proportion to try to get a better balance. It's not working.

Mocking up these quilt samples with colour chips has actually clearly showed me that they don't work which is mainly due to value. There is too much similarity between the two lighter colours. Now I need to renegotiate colour choices with my small person!

4. Colour theory is useful but don’t get stuck on it OR Trust your instincts

So when I initially went looking for an answer on what was the perfect (;)) colour to go with what I had and bigger than that – how to choose colours for a project that sing – I looked quite hard at colour theory. And I found it useful – complementary, harmonius, tone, value etc. Interesting even. You should investigate it and see what you get out of it. There are may useful things to learn.

But the answer to my particular colour problem doesn’t lie with colour theory. Because, as the lovely Penelope pointed out to me, when she found me amoungst the paint chips of the floor of our local hardware store

“There isn’t one answer Felicia. There are lots of answers!”

— Penelope Aitken, in Bunnings

And if I am doing all the other things – using a visual diary, developing my ideas on paper and considering value, thinking a little about colour theory, then really I just need to practice and trust my instincts on what looks right.

So there you have it. My findings on what has helped me - hopefully something in there that will help you in your colour journey. I would love to hear any other ideas you have .....I'm always on the hunt for new ideas!!

Felicia x

Note: We are currently working on the next round of classes for The Craft Sessions Sept 2014 and I am going to be asking each of my teachers – where appropriate – to give you their individual takes on colour theory. What they use and how they use it within their crafting practice. I can’t wait to hear what they have to say.

Learn to read your knitting - Part 2 - Decreases

Learn to read your knitting – Part 2 – Decreases

Thanks for all the love for Part 1 of our new series, Learn to Read Your Knitting. If you want to have a look at Part 1 you can find it here - The Secret to Becoming a Great Knitter.

Learning to read which kind of decrease you have made, and how many rows you have knitted since the last decrease, is one of the simplest and yet most helpful things you can learn.

Learning to read which kind of decrease you have made will come in handy when you have done something like heavily modified a sleeve, left it for a year and then are trying to figure out what you did OR when you see (as I once did) a gorgeous vintage pullover in a cabinet displayed on the wall and you are desperate to copy the gorgeous raglan shaping it had. 

And learning how to count the rows since your last decrease row gives you total freedom from writing down the number of rows that you have completed. Freedom!! And it means you can quickly power through knitting the body or sleeve or yoke without needing to refer (too often) to your pattern. 

Today we are going to look at the two most common decreases - a k2tog (knit two together) and a ssk (slip slip knit). K2tog is a right leaning decrease. The ssk is a left leaning decrease that is similar to the sl1k1psso in look - so what I write about the ssk will also apply to that decrease.

These decreases are commonly used for;

• sleeves when working from the top
• yoke decreases when working from the bottom e.g. in a raglan
• side seam decreases when working from the bottom.

1. What is a decrease stitch?

A decrease stitch is simply a single loop pulled through two (or three) stitches - decreasing the number of stitches from two (or three) to a single stitch. This is true regardless of whether it is a k2tog, ssk, sl1k1psso or even a sl1 k2tog psso. 

2. Reading the number of rows since the decrease row

The theory for reading the number of rows you have knitted since you did the decrease row, is exactly the same no matter what type of decrease you are doing – and it is easy to learn. The only thing that is a slight bit trickier, is reading the number of rows it in the round versus doing it flat. Both are so easy though, you will be reading your knitting in no time.

Again you can do this yourself. Just watch your decreases as you make them. Learn what they look like. Please remember to only use light/mid coloured yarn that isn’t too fluffy when you begin. Round yarns are easier too. AND we are still working only on stocking stitch. Again my apologies for my pictures which are still using a yarn with a slight twist. I am away and a bit stuck with what I have on hand.....

The decrease point can often be found as we can see two lines of Vs merging and/or if you run your fingers around the fabric (thumb on top and pointer underneath) then you can often also feel it. Along a sleeve, this decrease is often in the curled up edge if you are knitting flat. This finger trick will help - it doesn't work so well with a flat yarn - round yarns are easy.

To read the number of rows since the decrease we simply need to find the single loop that was pulled through the two loops and then we count up from there. That single loop is in the decrease row. 

Look for one stitch sitting on top of another and find the loop coming out of them. AND because we know that the structure of a knit stitch has a V at the bottom and a loop at the top, we can count upwards starting with the hole in the middle of the V. Poke your needle tip into each hole in the V - it helps!

The decrease stitch is the loop below the stitch on the left hand needle. You can see the two stitches that were decreased below this stitch. 

The decrease row is generally the first row in the decrease repeat section of the pattern. Normally a pattern will say something like;

“ROW 15: (RS) Decrease row......

ROW 16-22: Knit 7 rows in pattern.

Then repeat Rows 15-22 X times.”

So an 8 row repeat in this case.

So here is the key to counting - The number of rows we have knitted including the decrease row/round includes the stitch (the loop) that comes out of the two loops, then all the Vs in a direct line above it, as well as the stitch that is on the needle. 

Count the rows and see if you can figure it out. Answer at the end * - a bit like the crossword in the paper ;)

How I wish you were all in my lounge right now so I could show you rather than trying to type it out. I have made you some pictures and hopefully they help but if I have lost you then please ask questions in the comments. I'm going to try saying it a few different ways to bring you all along, so please feel free to skip ahead if you have got it.

So to really spell it out - our pattern tells us to do a decrease row and then to knit 7 rounds, then we are looking for 8 stitches total in a vertical line above the two stitches sitting on top of one another. The decrease stitch (which is the loop pulled through the two stitches) as well as the stitch on the needle are both included. We have the first loop (pulled through the two stitches), six more Vs above it and then a stitch on the needle which makes your 8. In an eight row repeat you are due a decrease round for the next row.

And another one - this time we are looking at the decrease below the first stitch on the left needle. This one is a k2tog and a little trickier to see. Look for two lines of stitching becoming one. One of the two stitches sits behind the other. Again the number or rows is at the end**

If we are knitting a flat piece of work, it is a little simpler to count the number of rows because we know if we are at the start of a right side (RS) row then we have knitted an even number of rows including the decrease row.

If we are knitting in the round we don’t have the advantage of being able to assume that we have completed an even number of rows BUT because we can count our Vs, then we simply carefully count up and include the stitches on the needle. Done.

The picture below is an example of what it would look like when you are up to a yoke decrease. When you are counting rows to decrease at the yoke then you often do the decrease round every second row.  If you have one loop coming out of the decrease stitch (which the stitch on the left needle below) then it is time for another decrease round.

If this was a yoke, and the decrease was every second round we would be up to a k2tog.

3. What kind of decrease is that?

OK. So the final thing we need to understand today is the difference between what a ssk (left leaning) and a k2tog (right leaning) look like. There are other variations you will do and you should learn them over time but these two are the most common. 

This is tricky to explain but pretty simple. The pictures should help I hope.

The key is this - whichever stitch goes onto the right needle first when doing the decrease dictates which way the stitch will lean and which decrease you have done. The stitch that is first on the right needle ends up in front of the second stitch on the needle. 

When you do a k2tog you put the right needle tip into the second stitch on the left needle before then putting it into the first stitch on the left needle.

Right needle into the second stitch on the left needle and then the first stitch on the left needle. This pulls the second stitch in front of the first.

The single loop is pulled through the two loops from back to front.

A little hard to see due to my yarn but look just below the stitch on the right hand needle. You can see that the second stitch is now sitting in front of the first.

This pulls the second stitch on the left needle on top of the first. The loop is then pulled from the back to the front through the first stitch on the left needle first and then through the second stitch on the left needle - giving you a right leaning decrease. The second stitch ends up on top. 

With a ssk you are changing the order of the stitches to ensure that the first stitch on the right needle is actually the first stitch on the left needle. This pulls the first stitch on top of the second stitch giving you a left leaning decrease. 

Slip one stitch from left needle to right.

Slip the second stitch from left to right needle.

This means that now the first stitch went on to the right needle first so it will end up on top. 

The single loop being pulled through the two stitches on the needle.

The first stitch is now sitting on top of the second stitch.

As always the best way to learn is to watch what you are knitting. Have a look at your decreases. Straight after you have done one. On the next row and the next. It will make sense in time - promise!

Questions?? Happy to answer anything - and also please let me know if there is something else you want me to tackle. 

Next up we do increases.....

Felicia x

UPDATE: Learn to Read Your Knitting - Part 3 - Increases is now up on the blog. 

Learn To Read Your Knitting - Part 1 - Stitch Structure - post was called The Secret to Becoming a Great Knitter. 

*Including the decrease row there are six rows. The decrease is a ssk.

**Including the decrease row there are eight rows. The decrease is a k2tog.