Part 1 - Knitting Tips and Tricks - Counting

Another new ongoing mini-series prompted and inspired by the lovely Jen and Martine - my mates who I have been assisting through the process of beginner knitting. Working with them has made me realise that there are so many things about knitting (and also sewing but that is for another day) that it isn't possible to learn in books. And it is really valuable stuff. The kind of stuff you learn from experience and experimenting. From being in the right place at the right time with the right knitter. Or picking a pattern that usefully tells you how to do something. So much of knitting is assumed knowledge and I am only realising through working with them all that I actually know more than I think I do. It's the little things.

And so I have decided that occasionally, as I think of them, I will write them down for you in the hope they help you.

First up we are going to do counting. An oft overlooked annoying point for knitters. Counting stitches, counting gauge and counting rows. I can make it easier.

1. Counting stitches

This is possibly the best "trick" I know and it isn't even a trick. But it will change your life if you are a knitter!

I have no idea if I made it up or I read it somewhere. My apologies for not crediting the genius that came up with it (if there was one), but I have been doing it so long I don't know to not do it y'know?

Doing a stitch count to check you are on track is one of the only times where I condone counting in knitting. Generally I think you should learn to read your knitting and so there should be little reason to count. Stitch counts here and there however, are essential. Really important. 

The number of times early on I had to count my 300 stitches (my first project was Birch) and kept loosing count, over and over and over again and taking for-e-ver. Well you probably don't need the details. Incredibly frustrating, 1,2,3,4,5, .....145,146.....

Later in my knitting career I started counting in twos. 2,4,6,...you get the picture. Still loosing count and still wasting my life and my knitting time.

So the trick! - the trick is to count in FIVES!! Yes fives. I swear this is life changing.

Your eyes can actually clock five stitches at a time. They really can - five stitches look a certain way. They make sense to the eyes and make it so much quicker to count and much much harder to loose your place. You may need a small amount of practice but you can pick this up really quickly and it will save you SOO much time. All about the joy!

2. Counting your gauge

I often hear of people struggling to count their gauge and so I thought I would share what I do which makes it super easy. You just need a few sewing pins, a ruler or tape measure of some description and you are good to go.

Lay your swatch on a bed/couch/something firm but squishy. Take out your tape measure and lie it towards the top of your swatch. Make sure that you follow the line of stitches across from your first stitch so you are measuring along the same row and not crossing rows. 

Mark out the start and finish of your 10cm/4" with pins making sure that you start on the left hand side of a V - see our Learn to Read Your Knitting post - Part 1 if this doesn't make sense. Put your final pin in exactly where the 10cm/4inch mark is. 

Mark the start and the end, making sure you begin on the left hand side of a V.

I find it easier to use a different colour pin to mark each 5 stitches. Look for the Vs.

Leaving the ruler/tape measure in place put a pin in every 5 stitches. You can do this easier because you know that you are looking for the Vs - right. Five Vs then a pin and then another five Vs etc until you reach the 10cm/4inch mark.

Leave the pins in and then count the number of left over stitches between the last marker for a five and the final pin that marks 10cm/4inches. Make sure that you count 1/2 stitches and even 1/4 stitches at the end if you have them. Be as accurate as you can. 

And here is the critical bit....Repeat towards the bottom of the swatch. It also helps if you do it before and after you have washed your swatch. This tells you what gauge you will be getting when you are knitting, as well after it has been blocked.

Here is another example just because ...

This shows that we have 3 and 3/4 stitches in the last bit. Giving us 23.75 stitches as the gauge.

One final example. This large gauge knitting often is tricky because the yarn stretches so much. Make sure it is relaxed when you count. And don't do what I am doing in the picture and counting when it is on the needle....

3. Counting rows

In the Learn to Read Your Knitting - Part 2 post we talked about counting rows. The best way I've found is to mark the first V you are counting with a pin in the hole of the stitch. Then stretch the fabric slightly before using the needle tip to count the Vs going upwards. Stretching the fabric width-wise and length-wise makes the individual stitches easy to see. You can also use pins here to mark 5 rows to make it easier, or you have a lot of rows to count.

Same two examples for you - which I like because they are both lightly hairy yarn (both contain alpaca) and are slightly harder to read - which is good because you can see that using this stretching pin "trick" you can easily see the stitches.

Counting the Vs.

The other thing that will help is to put a contrasting colour on the table behind the knitting when you are trying to count. Then when you stretch the knitting you can more clearly see the holes. If you have light coloured knitting use a dark fabric and vice versa.

I didn't realise before I wrote the post but the key to counting is 5.....who knew?

I really hope that was helpful. Try the counting 5s thing. It really is lifechanging. Let me know if you like it.

Felicia x

Learn to read your knitting - Part 2 - Decreases

Learn to read your knitting – Part 2 – Decreases

Thanks for all the love for Part 1 of our new series, Learn to Read Your Knitting. If you want to have a look at Part 1 you can find it here - The Secret to Becoming a Great Knitter.

Learning to read which kind of decrease you have made, and how many rows you have knitted since the last decrease, is one of the simplest and yet most helpful things you can learn.

Learning to read which kind of decrease you have made will come in handy when you have done something like heavily modified a sleeve, left it for a year and then are trying to figure out what you did OR when you see (as I once did) a gorgeous vintage pullover in a cabinet displayed on the wall and you are desperate to copy the gorgeous raglan shaping it had. 

And learning how to count the rows since your last decrease row gives you total freedom from writing down the number of rows that you have completed. Freedom!! And it means you can quickly power through knitting the body or sleeve or yoke without needing to refer (too often) to your pattern. 

Today we are going to look at the two most common decreases - a k2tog (knit two together) and a ssk (slip slip knit). K2tog is a right leaning decrease. The ssk is a left leaning decrease that is similar to the sl1k1psso in look - so what I write about the ssk will also apply to that decrease.

These decreases are commonly used for;

• sleeves when working from the top
• yoke decreases when working from the bottom e.g. in a raglan
• side seam decreases when working from the bottom.

1. What is a decrease stitch?

A decrease stitch is simply a single loop pulled through two (or three) stitches - decreasing the number of stitches from two (or three) to a single stitch. This is true regardless of whether it is a k2tog, ssk, sl1k1psso or even a sl1 k2tog psso. 

2. Reading the number of rows since the decrease row

The theory for reading the number of rows you have knitted since you did the decrease row, is exactly the same no matter what type of decrease you are doing – and it is easy to learn. The only thing that is a slight bit trickier, is reading the number of rows it in the round versus doing it flat. Both are so easy though, you will be reading your knitting in no time.

Again you can do this yourself. Just watch your decreases as you make them. Learn what they look like. Please remember to only use light/mid coloured yarn that isn’t too fluffy when you begin. Round yarns are easier too. AND we are still working only on stocking stitch. Again my apologies for my pictures which are still using a yarn with a slight twist. I am away and a bit stuck with what I have on hand.....

The decrease point can often be found as we can see two lines of Vs merging and/or if you run your fingers around the fabric (thumb on top and pointer underneath) then you can often also feel it. Along a sleeve, this decrease is often in the curled up edge if you are knitting flat. This finger trick will help - it doesn't work so well with a flat yarn - round yarns are easy.

To read the number of rows since the decrease we simply need to find the single loop that was pulled through the two loops and then we count up from there. That single loop is in the decrease row. 

Look for one stitch sitting on top of another and find the loop coming out of them. AND because we know that the structure of a knit stitch has a V at the bottom and a loop at the top, we can count upwards starting with the hole in the middle of the V. Poke your needle tip into each hole in the V - it helps!

The decrease stitch is the loop below the stitch on the left hand needle. You can see the two stitches that were decreased below this stitch. 

The decrease row is generally the first row in the decrease repeat section of the pattern. Normally a pattern will say something like;

“ROW 15: (RS) Decrease row......

ROW 16-22: Knit 7 rows in pattern.

Then repeat Rows 15-22 X times.”

So an 8 row repeat in this case.

So here is the key to counting - The number of rows we have knitted including the decrease row/round includes the stitch (the loop) that comes out of the two loops, then all the Vs in a direct line above it, as well as the stitch that is on the needle. 

Count the rows and see if you can figure it out. Answer at the end * - a bit like the crossword in the paper ;)

How I wish you were all in my lounge right now so I could show you rather than trying to type it out. I have made you some pictures and hopefully they help but if I have lost you then please ask questions in the comments. I'm going to try saying it a few different ways to bring you all along, so please feel free to skip ahead if you have got it.

So to really spell it out - our pattern tells us to do a decrease row and then to knit 7 rounds, then we are looking for 8 stitches total in a vertical line above the two stitches sitting on top of one another. The decrease stitch (which is the loop pulled through the two stitches) as well as the stitch on the needle are both included. We have the first loop (pulled through the two stitches), six more Vs above it and then a stitch on the needle which makes your 8. In an eight row repeat you are due a decrease round for the next row.

And another one - this time we are looking at the decrease below the first stitch on the left needle. This one is a k2tog and a little trickier to see. Look for two lines of stitching becoming one. One of the two stitches sits behind the other. Again the number or rows is at the end**

If we are knitting a flat piece of work, it is a little simpler to count the number of rows because we know if we are at the start of a right side (RS) row then we have knitted an even number of rows including the decrease row.

If we are knitting in the round we don’t have the advantage of being able to assume that we have completed an even number of rows BUT because we can count our Vs, then we simply carefully count up and include the stitches on the needle. Done.

The picture below is an example of what it would look like when you are up to a yoke decrease. When you are counting rows to decrease at the yoke then you often do the decrease round every second row.  If you have one loop coming out of the decrease stitch (which the stitch on the left needle below) then it is time for another decrease round.

If this was a yoke, and the decrease was every second round we would be up to a k2tog.

3. What kind of decrease is that?

OK. So the final thing we need to understand today is the difference between what a ssk (left leaning) and a k2tog (right leaning) look like. There are other variations you will do and you should learn them over time but these two are the most common. 

This is tricky to explain but pretty simple. The pictures should help I hope.

The key is this - whichever stitch goes onto the right needle first when doing the decrease dictates which way the stitch will lean and which decrease you have done. The stitch that is first on the right needle ends up in front of the second stitch on the needle. 

When you do a k2tog you put the right needle tip into the second stitch on the left needle before then putting it into the first stitch on the left needle.

Right needle into the second stitch on the left needle and then the first stitch on the left needle. This pulls the second stitch in front of the first.

The single loop is pulled through the two loops from back to front.

A little hard to see due to my yarn but look just below the stitch on the right hand needle. You can see that the second stitch is now sitting in front of the first.

This pulls the second stitch on the left needle on top of the first. The loop is then pulled from the back to the front through the first stitch on the left needle first and then through the second stitch on the left needle - giving you a right leaning decrease. The second stitch ends up on top. 

With a ssk you are changing the order of the stitches to ensure that the first stitch on the right needle is actually the first stitch on the left needle. This pulls the first stitch on top of the second stitch giving you a left leaning decrease. 

Slip one stitch from left needle to right.

Slip the second stitch from left to right needle.

This means that now the first stitch went on to the right needle first so it will end up on top. 

The single loop being pulled through the two stitches on the needle.

The first stitch is now sitting on top of the second stitch.

As always the best way to learn is to watch what you are knitting. Have a look at your decreases. Straight after you have done one. On the next row and the next. It will make sense in time - promise!

Questions?? Happy to answer anything - and also please let me know if there is something else you want me to tackle. 

Next up we do increases.....

Felicia x

UPDATE: Learn to Read Your Knitting - Part 3 - Increases is now up on the blog. 

Learn To Read Your Knitting - Part 1 - Stitch Structure - post was called The Secret to Becoming a Great Knitter. 

*Including the decrease row there are six rows. The decrease is a ssk.

**Including the decrease row there are eight rows. The decrease is a k2tog.

The secret to becoming a great knitter!

The thing is that I'm not kidding with my heading. There is a secret....and I have no idea why it is a secret. Nor do I have any idea why noone talks about it or writes about it. Drives me a little nuts. So this is the post my friends when all is revealed. This is the post I have been meaning to write since the blog began.

See if any of this describes you. You might be an OK knitter. You might be a good knitter. You have been knitting for a few years (1 or 3 or 10 or even 40). You might be able to increase and decrease and have the skills to do an icord or a cable or a X or a Y or a Z. You have some skills. Whatever it is that you can do, means that you make pretty things - that people compliment you on. You like knitting. You may LOVE knitting! 

BUT one of these things other things is also true. While you are knitting you lack a bit of confidence. You worry about dropping stitches or misreading instructions. You worry about loosing count. You worry that you will lose your place. You worry that when you make a mistake you won't understand it well enough to fix it. You are scared to rip the knitting off the needles, so you tink back row after row, just to fix a one stitch mistake. You think that when you lose your place there is no way of figuring out where you are at, so you just need to fake it and maybe measure it with a tape measure, and guess a bit. You really want to try that lace pattern but don't have the headspace for all the counting at the moment. I could go on but I think you get it.

You have some fear. You have some tension in your body, and possibly in your heart as you knit. And you definitely have some worry. Knitting doesn't feel glorious and free and meditative all the time. It often feels a bit stressful and causes angst.

The thing is - you should never have to count your rows or your stitches* - except to do the odd stitch count to make sure you are on track. You should never knit with fear in your heart. You should be able to knit something in pattern without having to worry about finishing at a particular point so you don't get lost. You should be able to put something down for a year and pick it up and figure out where you are up to by looking at the knitting - not the pattern!! 

So let's get to the secret because this answer will truly set you free - free from all the grief and angst and pain.....

A favourite knit - Immie Tee by Carrie from Madder Made.

You need to .............

Learn to read your knitting!

This post is the start of a little mini series called - Learn To Read Your Knitting - where I tell you all I have learned over the last 10 or so years about the structure of knitting and why you should care.

So what does that even mean in reality?? And why is learning to read your knitting such a big deal?

Learning to read your knitting means that you will understand the structure of the piece you are working on. And structure is the key to becoming great at knitting - taking your knitting to the next level so to speak. You will be able to see if you have made a mistake and you will be able to see where the mistake was. And what it was. You will be able to fix things. You will rarely need to count in your head (except for the odd stitch count here and there), or tick off the number of increases you have done on the pattern. You will be able to alter your garments because you understand the structure of what you are making. You will be able to recover a garment that got left in your bag, slipped off the needles and then was chewed on by a toddler/dog.

Knitting will just be about joy **! You will be free!

Now this will take some time - it has taken me a few years! It will take some thought. And it will take some practice. I'm going to try to help - but really you can do this yourself. You really can. It is something you learn bit by bit. You will learn through your mistakes. You will learn through practice.

You can do this from wherever you are in your knitting career - complete beginner or capable knitter. You should only attempt to do it when you are knitting with light- or mid-coloured not-super-fluffy yarn, and this is a no-alcohol, no-exhaustion type situation. It calls for a clear head! 

Today's post will be obvious to some of you, but I know there are others of you who still see it as a bit of a mystery. Hopefully this helps. Don't expect that it will all make sense after reading through this once. Just start taking notice and it will make sense in time. 

Also when you are starting to read your knitting ignore garter stitch. I know it is a recommended stitch for beginners, and you can still knit it, but don't attempt to understand it till you have got the basics. (In my opinion a much better starting project for beginners is a 3 x 3 or 4 x 4 rib cowl or hat or scarf because you can see whether you need to do a purl or a knit stitch next and start understanding structure from day 1.)

The beautiful Clara - an all time favourite.

I am going to start writing about it using a yarn I had to hand - not perfect because it does have a little twist in it - and if I had time I would redo the photos and use a different colour for the yarn for the row just knitted....next post I promise - the photos will be better!  We are starting with stocking stitch - the most basic knit fabric.

Our sample is knitted at a loose gauge on needles that are too big so we can really see the structure!

Read Your Knitting - Part 1

1. The basic structure of knitted fabric.

The first thing you need to learn is the simplest and most important lesson. Everything hangs on this - the structure of knitting is really just a loop (from the current row) pulled through a loop (of the row below) pulled through a loop (of the row below that) pulled through a loop (of the row below that!). The way in which the loop is pulled through the loop means that you get either a knit or a purl stitch. If you pull the loop from the back through to the front you get a knit stitch. If you pull the exact same loop from the front to the back you will get a purl stitch.

A loop pulled through a loop pulled through a loop. The loop shown is a knit stitch BECAUSE it was pulled from the back through to the front - see how it pokes forward/up.

2. How the stitch sits on the needle.

Start by noticing that when you have stitches on the left needle, that the right-hand side of the stitch is on the front of the needle. This is super important to get. To really get this, have a look at the next stitch on the left needle. The right-hand side of the stitch will be on the front of the needle. If you now grab the right needle tip and poke it into the front of the stitch on the left needle (as if to knit) but then stretch the two needle tips a few mm apart, you can see that there is no twist in the stitch. 

The right hand side of the stitch is on the front of the needle.

The right-hand side of the stitch travels down into the right-hand side of the hole of the stitch in the row below. The left-hand side of the stitch which is was on the back of the needle, travels into the left hand side of hole of the stitch below.

Learning this means that you can put stitches back on the needle without twisting any. Right hand side on the front of the needle - simple.

3. The knit stitch

Look at the structure of the knit stitch. Use stocking stitch!! (not garter or you will confuse the beegeezus out of yourself). It simply is a loop of yarn pulled up through a loop of yarn pulled up through a loop of yarn. This is the basic reason why the fabric created by knitting is so awesome. It allows you to ladder a stitch back to where a mistake was way down below and fix it. It also allows a whole heap of other stuff that I won't confuse you with just yet. 

You can see the V by looking at the row just below the stitches that are on the needle. 

So just look at what it is. Really look! Have a look at how each stitch creates a V at the bottom and then has a loop at the top that travels behind the stitch directly above it in the next row - kind of hooking it in place. 

Notice that the back of the knit stitch (so on the wrong-side (WS) of your work) is the top of the loop - and that loop is kind of hooked around the stitch that is pulled through it to make the row above.

4. The purl stitch

Next look at what a purl stitch is doing! The reason you do a purl stitch in stocking stitch is so that all of your stitches face the right side of the fabric which gives you the nice flat fabric. So you need to change from a knit to a purl stitch on the WS of your fabric. This means you are pulling the loop from the WS through to the right-side (RS) or in other words from the front-facing-you to the back-which-is-the-right-side.

Confused yet? Reread it and better yet try it on some light coloured knitting you have lying around.

The loops seen from the purl side. You can also see how the stitch below holds the new loop in place.

5. Take notice

The last point for this week is just to take notice when you do something. Of what any stitch looks like - just before you knit it, straight afterwards, on the next row and the one after that. When you decrease, look at how the stitch looks from the front on the row that you are knitting. Have a look at the same stitch after you have done the next row. If you need to then you can grab a safety pin and thread it around the stitch you made. This will make it easier to see what it looks like on the next row. This will take time but really learn what it looks like.

Practice this and all the good stuff will come. Over time it will make sense. Maybe not on day 1 or 2 or 10 but it will come.

As always I'd love to hear your thoughts - good, bad, whatever. Tell me if my pictures aren't clear. I have no idea how to write on an image so as soon as I figure this out it will be a little easier. Are you up for more posts like this?  

Felicia x

UPDATE: I'll keep linking here as I create more.

Learn to Read Your Knitting - Part 2 - Decreases is up! 

Learn to Read Your Knitting - Part 3 - Increases is up!

*there are rare occasions but they should be rare!

**obviously this is a small exaggeration because of the pain inherent in any creative pursuit ;)

How to make a quick-but-gorgeous teacher gift

This post is a super simple how-to that results in the best teacher gift - thoughtful, simple, handmade. It is potentially so simple I am not sure it is worth a basic how-to but for those of you looking for ideas maybe this will tickle your fancy. It can be done in an evening or two after school and your 5+ child will be capable of making it almost completely solo. 

But before we begin I wanted to share the amazing thing that happened to us today while making the aforementioned gift.

A rite of passage occurred in my lounge this evening. This year I have two small people in school; one in Grade 1 and one in Prep. And today for the first time ever I had two small people that could thread their own needles. I know!! How good is that - it may have changed the emotional energy required to sew together forever. The just-turned-3-er still needed help every second minute but no matter. I have TWO independent stitchers - bring it on....

So this year I found a way for the smalls to design, create and own their gift for their teacher completely and thought we should share.

Child designed felt tree ornament

Materials List

• a pile of felt - preferably wool felt.
• a small amount of stuffing
• a fabric marker - my favourite is the blue Clover water erasable one.
• a needle
• some embroidery thread - preferably Perle 12 or Perle 8.
   

Step 1. Cut out two matching shapes of felt. We went with a heart shape...

Step 2. Using a fabric marker get your small to draw something on their felt. We chose the first letters of their teacher's name.

Step 3. Embroider over the drawing on the felt. A running stitch is probably better for the smaller ones. My 5yo and 7yo are both now capable of a beautiful backstitch.

Step 4. Sew the shapes together using either a whip stitch or the sewing machine leaving an inch size gap. 

Sewing the shapes together on the slightly larger version of this project - details towards the bottom of the post.

Step 5. Stuff the shape.

Step 6. Sew up the gap.

Step 7. Make a long loop of embroidery thread (or maybe a ribbon if you are feeling a little fancy) and attach it to the ornament.

Done! 

The front

The back.

So a simple project where they can own the whole design and the making. It didn't quite go to plan for me.....almost, but not quite.

My 5yo girl chose some felt in her teachers favourite colours ("It's easy mum because she likes sooo many colours") and some thread and got to work. Watching her little hands pull the thread through the felt so capably and confidently just made my heart sing. I actually got a little teary at one point - sshhh! She did her teachers initial on one side and then on the back she wanted me to draw some butterflies and hearts. And then off she went - concentrating hard, one stitch at a time.

It was this movement that caused the tears. The confidence with which she now stitches....geez...

Look at the little hand.

My boy child is one who has big ideas and I did have a moment today when I had to physically take a breath to ensure that I relinquished control over the project, and my materials, to let him go with his idea. He wanted to do something BIG.
"An ornament isn't big enough mum. I want to make him a cloth".
"With a massive piece of my wool felt that I have purchased for something else" I thought silently biting my tongue.
I then asked out loud "What will he do with the cloth mate?".
"I dunno mum...he can just use it as a cloth..."
Hmmm.... "What about we make it into a cushion?"
I was then seen as a champion facilitator of big ideas. Win win. And I can always buy more felt.

The teacher "cloth"

Anyway the point of the exercise was to get a present for their teachers (check) where they had put effort into thinking about what someone else would like (check) that they made with their own hands (check) and to their own design (check). I love love the joy and pride they get out of doing something like this. I remember the feeling from when I was a small person and my mum was the facilitator.

For those of you who think your kids might like to try some stitching but aren't sure where to start - mine started doing embroidery or making softies with felt when they were around three. Felt is an awesome starter project because unlike embroidery on fabric, as long as you use good wool felt, then it has enough stiffness that they can embroider without a hoop. This gives them more freedom to be able to manipulate the fabric which in turn makes it easier to embroider and sew. 

Starting out they just used a simple whip stitch and went round and round whatever interesting shape they cut out and then we stuck some stuffing in it and finished the hole. Project complete and happy small people. If possible I would always use wool felt as it feels nicer as the needle is going through, as well as being stiffer, so easier to sew. They are very happy with scraps. I would also use a Perle 8 cotton as it is thick and easier for them to thread than something with lots of plies like embroidery thread. 

I'd love to hear what you made? Any other ideas for simple teacher gifts?

Enjoy!

Felicia x

Multiple projects are the way forward

Craft is all about feeling. All about how you feel and how it makes you feel. That's why having multiple projects on the go is the way forward. It means there is a way of including craft in the everyday and therefore enriching that experience - no matter what the day brings.

So I thought I would give you a quick walk through of the projects (and the feelings) I have on the go at the moment, so you get a sense of just how mood specific it can be. 

NOTE: If your name is Simon or Julie - look away. Nothing for you to see here!! 

1. Comforted - or the long term when-there-is-nothing-else-to-do project. 

I have been making this scarf for over two years - and it will be stunning. It takes about 20 minutes to do a single row and by my calculation I have an astonishing number of rows left. It is made with cashmere though, as a special present and so it is worth spending the time. I always have this as a go-to when running out the door, when nothing else is in a fit state to take with me. This is always in it's bag, ready to go, waiting for a stitch. One stitch at a time. 

2. Love - or the bugger-this-is-boring-but-I-have-to-get-it-done project

I love love my SIL. She is sweet, kind, super-amazing smart and a great cook and one of the few people I would knit for outside of my kids. But this cardy is a hard hard slog. 5ply and nothing but stocking stitch ahead of me. I really want it to fit her and so I am slightly avoiding doing it as I'm worried it won't. Classic perfectionist avoidance - if I don't finish it then it won't be less than perfect, because it's not finished. Anyone else know about this kind of crazy??

Inspired - I'm sure you recognise the image. The irony is that I won't get to make this until the event is over.

3. Inspired - or the wow-I-feel-super-inspired-to-do-this-but-can-only-do-it-when-I-have-uninterupted-crafting-time project

I so want to start this quilt. I posted the fabrics and an idea for the design on instagram last week. But in order to do it I need some time. Not evening time as I make mistakes in the evening but about 2 hours of daylight. And it isn't happening. Weekends are out as I have a pile of small people and the daytime is currently taken up with my little side project. In my head I have already started; I have ironed the fabrics, done a small test run and it looks gorgeous. It sadly exists in pile form only - a pile that sings to me each time I walk past it in a longing and loving way.

Organised - Summer wardrobe basics

Organised - Colours and fabrics chosen by my little fella. 

4. Organised - or the kids-need-clothes project

This also exists in a pile at the moment (except for the one I did today which is pictured above). I know what needs to be done.  A couple of skirts and three pairs of small boy shorts in a hardy but soft light weight canvas or linen. No more will I be making shorts out of quilting cotton weight. That kid is playing soccer and keeps ripping the bottom's right out. Not sure how it's possible. I will be making my favourite boy's short pattern Pattern "l" from Happy Homemade. Seriously the best kid's Japanese pattern book of all time!

Fun - Love love love this pattern, fabric and small person

5. Enthused - or kids-don't-need-clothes-but-gee-this-fabric-is-pretty project

I have made a few of these dresses so far and see many more in my future. They cover the shoulders, are a sweet vintagy style and are simple to make. Pretty fabric and a great pattern = fun. Bring it on.

6. Motivated - or gee-I-can't-wait-until-this-is-finished project

I love this new knitting pattern called James. Super simple but with great shape. I started this twice and had to rip it out. Luckily I am doing this as a knitalong with my lovely friend Karen over in the US of A. Go and check her out. She is pretty amazing.....and she is now waaay ahead of me due to my false starts......competition and the promise of a super jumper is enough to keep anyone motivated.

Quick and dirty - new elastic into winter tights.

7. Frugal - or the *&%$!*& mending pile 

Nothing to say here except how on earth does this thing grow at the rate it does and why did I have so many children? 

Nurturing - Just because it will make her happy. 

8. Nurturing - or gee-I-love-my-small-people birthday project

A rabbit with a pink dress. While I love sewing felt (gorgeous feeling of the needle sliding through the felt), I hate starting it. Wrangling embroidery cotton is just plain annoying - unknotting the right colour from the big tangled mess. I might need to have a look in on Melissa's Embroidery Classes to see if she has some tips.  

But the small person will love love this rabbit. She has already named her Sophie. She and Sophie are to have matching pink dresses. I have also been asked to make baby Lucy (her doll) a matching quilt to the one she takes to bed each night. How could I say no?? 

9. Happy - or I-need-a-new-dress-or-two project

I have two to make. One is another Wiksten tank (See hundreds of gorgeous versions here). This tank is awesome. I wear this pattern more than anything else in my wardrobe. Over jeans, over leggings. Love it. (If you aren't confident about applying binding, working with light weight fabrics, french seams, handkerchief hems and beautiful finishes then sign on up to Sophie's Wiksten Tank workshop. You will finish the day with a beautiful tank and a feeling of pride and joy. What more could you ask for?). The other is a modified Darling Ranges dress by Megan Nielsen. I have made two of these before. The most wearable day to day dress ever. 

Adventurous - Started with some rough numbers and an idea.

10. Adventurous - or I-have-an-idea-and-I-want-to-try-it-out project

I've had this idea roaming around in my head for a while. Colourwork with a plain background and a single colour at a time. I love the contrast of colourwork done this way. The child doesn't need any more cardigans. But some scrap yarn was singing to me as I walked past and I really wanted to try this out. Just to see if I could make what was in my head. 

Excited - Gifts in the making.

11. Excited - or gee-I-created-this-craft-event-and-I-want-to-make-it-special project. 

No explanation necessary for this one.  

.....and there are more.

Who else needs more hours in the day??  Do you have different crafts for different moods?

Felicia x

Registration Update - Registration will close on October 10th. This lets our teachers better organise their classes and you organise your materials. Thanks for the registrations that have come in over the last few days! We will be sending the class confirmations and final materials list out to you all this week.