How to choose a sweater pattern

Alrighty then. This is another post about knitting - I'll do one on sewing soon but this one is close to my heart and I have been thinking about it over the last few days....so stay with me...

I am about to have to choose another major knitting project. I like to have a variety of stuff on the needles. One epic project (the current one is now over two years old!), one for the kids (colourwork cardigan), something for someone else (a cardigan for my SIL which I have been slowly working through), a couple of smaller car type projects (baby hats) and finally something for me that gives-me-immense-joy-to-knit, and is very exciting because I really want it to exist. And the last one is the project that I am trying to pick at the moment. 

I've learnt over the years that picking a sweater pattern is an art and a science! There are some lessons that I have learnt that I want to share with you. And the reason I think this is important enough to write a blog post about, is that each of these choices, the pattern, the yarn, the size and making any necessary modifications, can have an effect that will ultimately lead to a OHMYGODIT'SSOPERFECT_I'LLWEARITFOREVER situation or a MASSIVE_BUGGER! If you are going to the trouble of knitting a cardy or a jumper, you really want all that time and yarn to result in the former feeling.

I want you to know before you read on that I now manage to get this right most of the time. I don't want this to be a demoralising post ;-). I generally make things I love - but I do put the time in before I start, to make sure I have all these points covered!  I'd love to hear in the comments if you can think of any others..... 

A somewhat fail - I got the size wrong! Brooklyn Tweed's Stranger Cardigan. Knitted by me.

So here are my tips for ending up with a garment you love; 

1. Only choose a style you wear! Now this seems to be stating the bleeding obvious but I think this is the single biggest mistake I make. I have made it over and over and over again. I love the look of a pattern - I love it on the model - I love how it is styled - I think that it would be interesting to knit. BIG MISTAKE!  I love the process of knitting it but then don't wear the garment. Ever. It sits in the cupboard because every time I put it on I don't feel like me. 

What you need to do is to think about what you own already - and what you love   - and find patterns that fall kinda within this category. Venture outside what you have a little, but think carefully about the garment shapes and weights of garments you wear all the time.

I have included a small selection below that fit into the fail category... There are more - please don't judge me - or do. I don't really mind. I realise it is idiotic - I'm highlighting this as a community service! Please note; I really love all these patterns. They just aren't my style and sit unworn in the cupboard.

I don't wear swing cardigans! Pattern is Olivia by Kim Hargreaves. Knitting by me.

I don't wear thick round neck lace cardigans! Love this pattern by Nadia Crétin-Léchenne

I don't wear shawl collared cardigans! Pattern is Forestry by Vogue knitting. Knitting by me. 

I don't wear flappy side bits! The lovely Vitamin D by Heidi Kirrmaier.

2. Get the size right. Again it sounds like I am stating the obvious but this is a bit tricky, especially when you are just starting.

The best way is to find a similar cardigan or jumper in your wardrobe that you like the fit of. Then measure the chest width of the existing garment. Knit the size that is similar to the measurement you get, in the pattern. Don't just measure your chest and go with what the pattern says. People like different amounts of ease (tightness/looseness) and the only way to get this right is to measure something you like that is similar. 

Other things that will help - read what the designer says about the pattern and the amount of ease that is needed. This is why the cabled cardigan at the top of this post failed. I ignored what it said and thought that the stated ease was waaaay to much so did the smaller size. And there is not enough ease. I love it so much I wear it all the time still but it niggles me every time I put it on. My brain says "idiot!" (in a friendly bemused way) each time I put it on.....which is no way to feel about something you have spent hours knitting. 

Below is another fine example....can you see the problem? Again I wear this one - but never bothered to put the buttons on as I can't really do them up. 

Problem? The lovely Coraline by Ysolda. Knitting again by me.

3. Swatch! I know, I know; it's boring and you could be knitting. But if you are going to spend hours and hours knitting a sweater then make sure you get the gauge right. Suck it up and do a big swatch. Big! And then wash and dry it. Measure it to the half a stitch in a couple of places. This, really is the key! Try to think of it as part of the exciting  "dreaming" stage of sweater knitting. And don't go by the needle size suggested in the pattern. Change the needle until you get the right gauge for the pattern using your yarn of choice.

4. Match your yarn and pattern! What am I talking about.....well, it isn't just getting the gauge right that makes a difference to the wearability of the sweater. Look at the properties (alpaca, wool, silk %) of the suggested yarn of the pattern and find something similar. This will mean the pattern drapes and wears how it is supposed to.

Another classic mistake is to think "oooohhh that yarn is so soft" and then try to make a sweater out of it. A supersoft untwisted yarn is great for a hat or a cowl but it will end up being a super pilly disgusting mess of a jumper that you won't wear. 

Weird pose - I was trying to show how the shoulders fitted. I loved this cardy. The yarn was a bit "meh" though. Pattern is Bailey by Amy Christoffers.

One tip I have for a flowy drapey cardigan is to use something with some alpaca in it. My all time favourite cardigan is an alpaca silk - 3 years in it hasn't pilled, drapes wonderfully and is wearing super well. 

I have included a photo of the Minimalist cardigan below. And the problem with this one was that I chose a yarn that met gauge but I didn't wear because it was just too damn thick to have 3/4 sleeves. It meant I was hot and cold at the same time - all the time. My partner got sick of me complaining about it and made me rip it. Yes - I ripped the whole cardigan out and reused the yarn to make the Forestry above.....which was another fail. Ho Hum. 

Minimalist Cardigan by Ruthie ?? 

5. Modify. Goes without saying probably, but change anything you need to to make it work for you. Body length, sleeve length, waist shaping. It's your  knitting so make sure you end up with a shape you wear.

6. Advice for beginner garment knitters.

a. Make your first sweater or cardy pattern a seamless top-down one. Don't be scared by top-down. Follow the instructions and if you get stuck then use youtube. It is very hard to judge the right length of sleeves and the body when you are knitting from the bottom. Knitting in this way means that when you finish the knitting all you have to do is weave in the ends. There is no sewing up and you will be able to try it on all through the process which will mean you can be sure it is going to fit. Win!

b. Choose a pattern with a gauge of about 18-20 stitches. Yes there are lots of pretty patterns outside this but this will ensure you get a quick win. And you need quick wins when you are beginning. Knitting a sweater for a year can be demoralising. And knitting should be all about joy!

c. Choose a yarn you love. Don't buy a cheap yarn. Some people think this is counter intuitive; the old I'm-only-a-beginner-so-I-don't-want-to-spend-too-much theory. Knitting is a lot about the process. Feeling and watching a gorgeous yarn between your fingers for hours on end make the process an absolute pleasure. Not so much with a blah yarn. 

d. Buy a good needle. For the same reasons as I mentioned in point c. A good needle will have a flexible soft cord and a good smooth join. Please don't buy one of those ugly grey circular needles. They will make you miserable! A lovely Addi Turbo or Knitpicks needle will give you many hours of pleasure. They are worth the price!!

e. Choose a pattern you really love even if you think it might be a little tricky! This will help you with your motivation when times get tough. Use youtube to learn the bits you don't know. Youtube taught me how to knit.

Does anyone else have any suggestions, failures and successes they would like to share? I'd love to hear them....

Felicia x

New Teacher Announcements

Exciting news today. We have two new - fantastically talented - teachers joining us for The Craft Sessions. One you will know - the amazingly talented Kirsten Johnstone and the second you probably won't know but you really should - the stupendously clever Anna O'Brien. 

So let's chat a bit about Kirsten Johnstone - a stunning knitwear designer from Melbourne who is also an architect and just has incredible style. I love her work! Beautiful, simple shapes in knitwear patterns are often the trickiest to find and Kirsten has this covered. She has incredible attention to detail - her patterns contain simple details that result in knitwear that is really special. Her design stripes are so incredible that her work has been included in collections from Shibui and the always amazing Brooklyn Tweed. We are lucky enough to have talked Kirsten into teaching the Beyond Beginner Knitting class - she has a wealth of knowledge about knitting - so take advantage people....

The second teacher is a friend of mine in real life - the ever lovely Anna O'Brien. Anna would hands down be the most incredibly beautiful crafter I know. She would scare me a little, as the things she makes are just so beautiful and perfect, were it not that she is incredibly open and generous as a human, and with her crafting knowledge. Actually she is fabulous at more than just crafting. She is also an amazing cook; the woman can make croissants - who does that???? Anna runs workshops in Melbourne and I keep hearing report after report after report of how amazing she is as a teacher. I'm so excited she will be joining us to teach both the Beyond Beginner Knitting and Anatomy of a Quilt. 

Anna O'Brien - her blog is called Swallow Tail and Spool 

I cut some words out of Anna's bio for space reasons but I thought I would post them here as they say a lot about how she teaches and what she loves. 

"I really do feel that anyone can learn to make things with their hands. I think craft is mostly a combination of practice and, like most creative endeavours, a little bit of courage. It is so satisfying the first time a new skill or technique ’clicks’ and something that started off feeling awkward and clumsy suddenly feels natural, or when an idea that has lived in your imagination becomes real at your own hands." Anna O'Brien

{C}

Anyway enough descriptive words (they are all true!)  for one morning. If you want to read a bit more about them - like their bios - I have updated our Teachers page with all their details. Enjoy!

Do you craft for joy?

In putting together The Craft Sessions we thought a lot about who it was for - and the simplest answers is that it for those people that craft for joy! Who craft for the pleasure they get from making something with their hands. For people who love seeing an idea come to life; who feel compelled to make and love getting into the flow of creating.

And it is a bit tricky to explain but it is for exactly the same reason that we put this event together. The idea for The Craft Sessions wouldn't go away. And in the end we felt compelled to do it, compelled to create it. Because there isn't anything like this in Australia - and there should be! We should have the opportunity to get together with other people that make for joy, share, be inspired and learn things. 

Yes there are markets for makers and small crafting groups and wool shows and workshops but nothing that had all the good stuff in the one event. That would bring together people that craft for the fun of it, where there was time to really get to know and be inspired by others outside our immediate crafty circles, super inspiring teachers with great tricks, great food, tea and a bit of scenery thrown in.  

So if you identify with the "I craft for joy!" mantra or something like it - we would love you to join us. Your level of crafty-ness doesn't matter. Beginners who are trying to include more creative time in their lives are looked after as our teachers are all super encouraging. The most advanced crafter is covered too as there is a varied program that allows you to work at your own level. The Craft Sessions is for crafters of all levels - those who know what they are doing already and those who want to know more. I know I'm a bit of both....you?

So why do you craft? For the joy? Or does it give you something else?

I would love to hear your thoughts. 

Felicia x

Registration Update

Registrations have been going really well with the quick-off-the-mark types getting in and locking down their preferences. At this stage we still have space in all classes as people have been choosing classes right across the spectrum. Which is great!

How to fit in more crafting time

I'm always on the hunt for more ideas for how to fit more crafting in. In my head I have hundreds (and hundreds) of ideas of things I want to make and sadly only a small-ish amount of time. I'm sometimes asked how I make as much stuff as I do so I thought today I would share some ways that I get more crafting in.  Some are super obvious but others maybe not so much....

1. Do multiple crafts. Now this is stating the obvious but some crafts like sewing clothes require you to have kit. They aren't portable and therefore you are restricted as to where and when you can do them. Handwork such as knitting, embroidery or handquilting are more portable; anywhere at any time crafts. Hoorah! Which leads me to my next point.

2. Craft anywhere. And I mean anywhere. Don't worry about feeling a little bit silly knitting on a train or at a school assembly. Tell that feeling to take a hike. The amount of hours in the week where you are beholden to sit and listen or wait for things add up very quickly to something fabulous in terms of productivity. 

3. The kid bonus. For those with small people - you will know there are many parts of parenting that are excruciatingly boring (said with love!) Use those times for good. For example, did you know that a 2yo is fully capable of holding their own book and turning the page! I can't tell you how happy I was when I figured this out! Hours of book reading can now be crafting time. Watching babies in the bath, going to the park, waiting at school pickup or dropoff can now be vastly improved with some productive handwork.

4. The downtime bonus. For those without kids - suggestion 3 still applies but alter the cirumstances.  Waiting for takeaway, public transport, any car ride.....always have something to do in your bag.

The Immie Tee. Knitted by me with some modifications. Best knitted with a single glass of wine and an open fire. More info about this one on Ravelry - my user name is Flickafish - or on our facebook page.

5. Have multiple projects on the go. Exclusivity is only for those with too much time on their hands. And if you are reading this little monolgue I am guessing that isn't you? Some knitting projects are not suitable for doing with distractions (kids?) around. Simple stocking stitch or garter stitch are perfect for those times. Save the more complicated work for when you have a glass of wine, a open fire and a podcast.

6.  Learn to knit with your eyes closed. This is essential and possible for all knitters. This means you can read a book, or watch tv, or be a car passenger on a winding road, or play a board game and still be knitting. I would go so far as to say it is an essential life skill. And it is not as hard as you think. Start by knitting a single stitch with your eyes shut. Feel the yarn. Then try it again. Before you know it....

7. Carve a space out to leave your kit out. I know this is tricky for many people but I have stuff lying all around the house. Get a bit bored of doing the washing? Knit a row. I do the same with the sewing machine. One seam at a time. I just try to always have something sitting out ready to go so if I do get a sec I just do a tiny bit. Two minutes here and two there.

8. Keep a stash. It doesn't have to be huge but it does need to have two things; 1. the basics and 2. some materials that inspire you. Basics are different for everyone but here is an example - I have about three big reels of cotton in each of these colours on hand at all times; dirty blue, grey, off-white, red and navy. These colours work for 90% of what i make.  I rarely match my cotton exactly because that would involve a trip to the shop which would slow me down. Secondly keeping materials on hand that inspire you is critical to avoiding the "what do i make now" time-wasting headspace. There should be a few things in the cupboard that sing out to you each time you wander past.

Do you have any others? I'd love to hear them... 

Felicia x

Teacher Feature - Georgie Hallam

If you are Australian knitter on Ravelry you are sure to know of Georgie! Her Milo pattern (which she is teaching in the Intro to Seamless class) is an iconic pattern that has over 6000 gorgeous versions on Ravelry. It's iconic for a reason - a sweet and simple vest that is super fast to knit up and is keeping little bodies warm around the world. At the farmers market in Castlemaine a few weeks ago I saw two versions of Milo before I had even ordered my coffee. 

As well as writing gorgeous patterns, Georgie is also incredibly helpful and participates regularly in the forums answering people's knitting questions, and taking feedback. I recently made one of her latest pattern's Granny's Favourite  (I love it so much I included a picture of it below!) and it is one of my all time favourite things I have ever ever made. The pattern is traditional and sweet but beautifully finished with gorgeous detail. What I really love about how Georgie writes patterns is that she is really thinking about how people read them. She tries to make patterns that give people plenty of information as well as opportunities to extend their knowledge.  

I'll hand over to Georgie now so we can hear a little bit about her history and process. Enjoy!! 

1. What brought you to craft or make?

I honestly can remember a time when I didn't craft or make. I think I am really a product of my mother, who is one of the most talented crafters I know. She's sewn, knit, crocheted, quilted, made porcelain dolls and teddy bears, made lampshades and goodness knows what else. We were brought up in a household where that was normal, her crafting material was always in sight. I guess it just sort of seeps into your consciousness, and it seems more or less odd to not make. 

I've knit ever since I was really young. Knitting was my mum's time out at the end of the day, so I'm not sure that she ever really taught me or I taught myself from watching her. I suspect it was a bit of both! I used to have a little notebook with these patterns that I'd written for barbie doll clothes, and I'd knit them up for our barbies. I so wish I still had that notebook.

I continued to knit as I got older, I don't think there was really ever a time when I didn't knit. I also dabbled in cross stitch and embroidery and spent a lot of time sewing. 

2. What do you love about your chosen craft?

I love its portability. I can take my knitting anywhere and steal a few rows anywhere I am. I take my knitting everywhere either in my bag or bicycle basket, to swimming, to school pickup, to theatre lessons, in the car, to the park and the beach. I steal a few rows when I'm knitting dinner. 

I also love the flexibility and forgiving nature of knitting. No mistake or error is unfixable or can completely ruin your project. You just frog and redo. 

I used to sew a lot when the kids, particularly Lily, was really young. For a while I ran my own business which specialised in organic denim pants designed to fit over cloth nappies. Now, I barely get time to sew. The knitting is partly to blame, but I'm often just not at home.... and my machine won't fit in my bicycle basket unfortunately!

3. When/how do you make time for craft in your life - do you have a process?

Anyone who knows me well will know that process and routine aren't words you'd use to describe me. I steal time for craft whenever I can! I have a rule that I don't do housework (apart from the dinner duties) after midday, which supposedly means I have the afternoon to work amongst the kinder and school pickups and after school activities.

Generally, I have a couple of hours in the afternoon three days a week where I do the business side of my craft; emails, pms, pattern writing. Each night after the little ones are in bed, I will usually knit. My youngest, Toby is a bit of a bedtime truant, so my window of opportunity there can vary greatly. 

My kids also love love love to craft. They are very imaginative and messy crafters so often when they get stuck into something they don't need any guidance, they like to follow their own ideas and don't want any outside help; and that gives me the chance to do my own thing. 

My version of Georgie's lovely pattern Granny's Favourite.

4. Where do you find inspiration?

I think it's pretty much the old stereotyped answer, everywhere!

It might be stitch pattern books, vintage magazines, a garment, be it sewn or knit that I see on someone somewhere in public. It might even be a colour that sets of an idea or even the need for something purely on a functional basis. I like to challenge the conventions of structure, so often it might be me looking at the shaping of a jumper and thinking how could I do that differently, how could I challenge the way that's come about. Or maybe even just, how can I play around with idea to create something new and different.

5. Who are your top 3 crafting heroes and why?

I don't think you could be a knitter and not mention Elizabeth Zimmermann. She really is responsible for bringing seamless knitting out of the dark. I love her relaxed approach to knitting and her willingness to challenge such long standing traditional conventions. Her Baby Surprise Jacket is pure genius! I learnt so much about design and construction initially from reading her books. 

My mum. Not only is she all-round talented crafter but she intuitively brought me up to believe that hand-made is special. I loved it when she knit jumpers for us as kids, I actually still have a couple of my favourites.  She also made our deb dresses, which were all absolutely amazing. I remember even as a teenager, thinking how special those hand-made items were.  I hope to teach my kids the same thing, I think it's really sad when crafters view their handiwork as inferior to bought mass-produced items; when they'll sew their child a dress but say it's just for around the house, it's not to be worn in public.

My third one would have to be the previous owner of WOOLganics, Mel, as well as the new owner, Susannah. WOOLganics is an amazing yarn. It has everything I want in a yarn; organic, ever so soft, beautiful stitch definition, great colour range and it is a delight to work with. When people describe yarn as being like butter through your fingers, that's WOOLganics. It is an AMAZING effort that both these ladies have gone to to get such a company off the ground in Australia. We might be renowned for our fine merino but so much of it is shipped offshore for scouring and processing. I love the dedication of WOOLganics to produce such a sustainable product that is true to its origins. It's so important to work with good quality products, the best you can afford; whether it be needles, fabric or yarn. 

Check out Georgie's website here http://www.tikkiknits.com.