The secret to becoming a great knitter!

The thing is that I'm not kidding with my heading. There is a secret....and I have no idea why it is a secret. Nor do I have any idea why noone talks about it or writes about it. Drives me a little nuts. So this is the post my friends when all is revealed. This is the post I have been meaning to write since the blog began.

See if any of this describes you. You might be an OK knitter. You might be a good knitter. You have been knitting for a few years (1 or 3 or 10 or even 40). You might be able to increase and decrease and have the skills to do an icord or a cable or a X or a Y or a Z. You have some skills. Whatever it is that you can do, means that you make pretty things - that people compliment you on. You like knitting. You may LOVE knitting! 

BUT one of these things other things is also true. While you are knitting you lack a bit of confidence. You worry about dropping stitches or misreading instructions. You worry about loosing count. You worry that you will lose your place. You worry that when you make a mistake you won't understand it well enough to fix it. You are scared to rip the knitting off the needles, so you tink back row after row, just to fix a one stitch mistake. You think that when you lose your place there is no way of figuring out where you are at, so you just need to fake it and maybe measure it with a tape measure, and guess a bit. You really want to try that lace pattern but don't have the headspace for all the counting at the moment. I could go on but I think you get it.

You have some fear. You have some tension in your body, and possibly in your heart as you knit. And you definitely have some worry. Knitting doesn't feel glorious and free and meditative all the time. It often feels a bit stressful and causes angst.

The thing is - you should never have to count your rows or your stitches* - except to do the odd stitch count to make sure you are on track. You should never knit with fear in your heart. You should be able to knit something in pattern without having to worry about finishing at a particular point so you don't get lost. You should be able to put something down for a year and pick it up and figure out where you are up to by looking at the knitting - not the pattern!! 

So let's get to the secret because this answer will truly set you free - free from all the grief and angst and pain.....

A favourite knit - Immie Tee by Carrie from Madder Made.

You need to .............

Learn to read your knitting!

This post is the start of a little mini series called - Learn To Read Your Knitting - where I tell you all I have learned over the last 10 or so years about the structure of knitting and why you should care.

So what does that even mean in reality?? And why is learning to read your knitting such a big deal?

Learning to read your knitting means that you will understand the structure of the piece you are working on. And structure is the key to becoming great at knitting - taking your knitting to the next level so to speak. You will be able to see if you have made a mistake and you will be able to see where the mistake was. And what it was. You will be able to fix things. You will rarely need to count in your head (except for the odd stitch count here and there), or tick off the number of increases you have done on the pattern. You will be able to alter your garments because you understand the structure of what you are making. You will be able to recover a garment that got left in your bag, slipped off the needles and then was chewed on by a toddler/dog.

Knitting will just be about joy **! You will be free!

Now this will take some time - it has taken me a few years! It will take some thought. And it will take some practice. I'm going to try to help - but really you can do this yourself. You really can. It is something you learn bit by bit. You will learn through your mistakes. You will learn through practice.

You can do this from wherever you are in your knitting career - complete beginner or capable knitter. You should only attempt to do it when you are knitting with light- or mid-coloured not-super-fluffy yarn, and this is a no-alcohol, no-exhaustion type situation. It calls for a clear head! 

Today's post will be obvious to some of you, but I know there are others of you who still see it as a bit of a mystery. Hopefully this helps. Don't expect that it will all make sense after reading through this once. Just start taking notice and it will make sense in time. 

Also when you are starting to read your knitting ignore garter stitch. I know it is a recommended stitch for beginners, and you can still knit it, but don't attempt to understand it till you have got the basics. (In my opinion a much better starting project for beginners is a 3 x 3 or 4 x 4 rib cowl or hat or scarf because you can see whether you need to do a purl or a knit stitch next and start understanding structure from day 1.)

The beautiful Clara - an all time favourite.

I am going to start writing about it using a yarn I had to hand - not perfect because it does have a little twist in it - and if I had time I would redo the photos and use a different colour for the yarn for the row just knitted....next post I promise - the photos will be better!  We are starting with stocking stitch - the most basic knit fabric.

Our sample is knitted at a loose gauge on needles that are too big so we can really see the structure!

Read Your Knitting - Part 1

1. The basic structure of knitted fabric.

The first thing you need to learn is the simplest and most important lesson. Everything hangs on this - the structure of knitting is really just a loop (from the current row) pulled through a loop (of the row below) pulled through a loop (of the row below that) pulled through a loop (of the row below that!). The way in which the loop is pulled through the loop means that you get either a knit or a purl stitch. If you pull the loop from the back through to the front you get a knit stitch. If you pull the exact same loop from the front to the back you will get a purl stitch.

A loop pulled through a loop pulled through a loop. The loop shown is a knit stitch BECAUSE it was pulled from the back through to the front - see how it pokes forward/up.

2. How the stitch sits on the needle.

Start by noticing that when you have stitches on the left needle, that the right-hand side of the stitch is on the front of the needle. This is super important to get. To really get this, have a look at the next stitch on the left needle. The right-hand side of the stitch will be on the front of the needle. If you now grab the right needle tip and poke it into the front of the stitch on the left needle (as if to knit) but then stretch the two needle tips a few mm apart, you can see that there is no twist in the stitch. 

The right hand side of the stitch is on the front of the needle.

The right-hand side of the stitch travels down into the right-hand side of the hole of the stitch in the row below. The left-hand side of the stitch which is was on the back of the needle, travels into the left hand side of hole of the stitch below.

Learning this means that you can put stitches back on the needle without twisting any. Right hand side on the front of the needle - simple.

3. The knit stitch

Look at the structure of the knit stitch. Use stocking stitch!! (not garter or you will confuse the beegeezus out of yourself). It simply is a loop of yarn pulled up through a loop of yarn pulled up through a loop of yarn. This is the basic reason why the fabric created by knitting is so awesome. It allows you to ladder a stitch back to where a mistake was way down below and fix it. It also allows a whole heap of other stuff that I won't confuse you with just yet. 

You can see the V by looking at the row just below the stitches that are on the needle. 

So just look at what it is. Really look! Have a look at how each stitch creates a V at the bottom and then has a loop at the top that travels behind the stitch directly above it in the next row - kind of hooking it in place. 

Notice that the back of the knit stitch (so on the wrong-side (WS) of your work) is the top of the loop - and that loop is kind of hooked around the stitch that is pulled through it to make the row above.

4. The purl stitch

Next look at what a purl stitch is doing! The reason you do a purl stitch in stocking stitch is so that all of your stitches face the right side of the fabric which gives you the nice flat fabric. So you need to change from a knit to a purl stitch on the WS of your fabric. This means you are pulling the loop from the WS through to the right-side (RS) or in other words from the front-facing-you to the back-which-is-the-right-side.

Confused yet? Reread it and better yet try it on some light coloured knitting you have lying around.

The loops seen from the purl side. You can also see how the stitch below holds the new loop in place.

5. Take notice

The last point for this week is just to take notice when you do something. Of what any stitch looks like - just before you knit it, straight afterwards, on the next row and the one after that. When you decrease, look at how the stitch looks from the front on the row that you are knitting. Have a look at the same stitch after you have done the next row. If you need to then you can grab a safety pin and thread it around the stitch you made. This will make it easier to see what it looks like on the next row. This will take time but really learn what it looks like.

Practice this and all the good stuff will come. Over time it will make sense. Maybe not on day 1 or 2 or 10 but it will come.

As always I'd love to hear your thoughts - good, bad, whatever. Tell me if my pictures aren't clear. I have no idea how to write on an image so as soon as I figure this out it will be a little easier. Are you up for more posts like this?  

Felicia x

UPDATE: I'll keep linking here as I create more.

Learn to Read Your Knitting - Part 2 - Decreases is up! 

Learn to Read Your Knitting - Part 3 - Increases is up!

*there are rare occasions but they should be rare!

**obviously this is a small exaggeration because of the pain inherent in any creative pursuit ;)

How to make a quick-but-gorgeous teacher gift

This post is a super simple how-to that results in the best teacher gift - thoughtful, simple, handmade. It is potentially so simple I am not sure it is worth a basic how-to but for those of you looking for ideas maybe this will tickle your fancy. It can be done in an evening or two after school and your 5+ child will be capable of making it almost completely solo. 

But before we begin I wanted to share the amazing thing that happened to us today while making the aforementioned gift.

A rite of passage occurred in my lounge this evening. This year I have two small people in school; one in Grade 1 and one in Prep. And today for the first time ever I had two small people that could thread their own needles. I know!! How good is that - it may have changed the emotional energy required to sew together forever. The just-turned-3-er still needed help every second minute but no matter. I have TWO independent stitchers - bring it on....

So this year I found a way for the smalls to design, create and own their gift for their teacher completely and thought we should share.

Child designed felt tree ornament

Materials List

• a pile of felt - preferably wool felt.
• a small amount of stuffing
• a fabric marker - my favourite is the blue Clover water erasable one.
• a needle
• some embroidery thread - preferably Perle 12 or Perle 8.
   

Step 1. Cut out two matching shapes of felt. We went with a heart shape...

Step 2. Using a fabric marker get your small to draw something on their felt. We chose the first letters of their teacher's name.

Step 3. Embroider over the drawing on the felt. A running stitch is probably better for the smaller ones. My 5yo and 7yo are both now capable of a beautiful backstitch.

Step 4. Sew the shapes together using either a whip stitch or the sewing machine leaving an inch size gap. 

Sewing the shapes together on the slightly larger version of this project - details towards the bottom of the post.

Step 5. Stuff the shape.

Step 6. Sew up the gap.

Step 7. Make a long loop of embroidery thread (or maybe a ribbon if you are feeling a little fancy) and attach it to the ornament.

Done! 

The front

The back.

So a simple project where they can own the whole design and the making. It didn't quite go to plan for me.....almost, but not quite.

My 5yo girl chose some felt in her teachers favourite colours ("It's easy mum because she likes sooo many colours") and some thread and got to work. Watching her little hands pull the thread through the felt so capably and confidently just made my heart sing. I actually got a little teary at one point - sshhh! She did her teachers initial on one side and then on the back she wanted me to draw some butterflies and hearts. And then off she went - concentrating hard, one stitch at a time.

It was this movement that caused the tears. The confidence with which she now stitches....geez...

Look at the little hand.

My boy child is one who has big ideas and I did have a moment today when I had to physically take a breath to ensure that I relinquished control over the project, and my materials, to let him go with his idea. He wanted to do something BIG.
"An ornament isn't big enough mum. I want to make him a cloth".
"With a massive piece of my wool felt that I have purchased for something else" I thought silently biting my tongue.
I then asked out loud "What will he do with the cloth mate?".
"I dunno mum...he can just use it as a cloth..."
Hmmm.... "What about we make it into a cushion?"
I was then seen as a champion facilitator of big ideas. Win win. And I can always buy more felt.

The teacher "cloth"

Anyway the point of the exercise was to get a present for their teachers (check) where they had put effort into thinking about what someone else would like (check) that they made with their own hands (check) and to their own design (check). I love love the joy and pride they get out of doing something like this. I remember the feeling from when I was a small person and my mum was the facilitator.

For those of you who think your kids might like to try some stitching but aren't sure where to start - mine started doing embroidery or making softies with felt when they were around three. Felt is an awesome starter project because unlike embroidery on fabric, as long as you use good wool felt, then it has enough stiffness that they can embroider without a hoop. This gives them more freedom to be able to manipulate the fabric which in turn makes it easier to embroider and sew. 

Starting out they just used a simple whip stitch and went round and round whatever interesting shape they cut out and then we stuck some stuffing in it and finished the hole. Project complete and happy small people. If possible I would always use wool felt as it feels nicer as the needle is going through, as well as being stiffer, so easier to sew. They are very happy with scraps. I would also use a Perle 8 cotton as it is thick and easier for them to thread than something with lots of plies like embroidery thread. 

I'd love to hear what you made? Any other ideas for simple teacher gifts?

Enjoy!

Felicia x

Multiple projects are the way forward

Craft is all about feeling. All about how you feel and how it makes you feel. That's why having multiple projects on the go is the way forward. It means there is a way of including craft in the everyday and therefore enriching that experience - no matter what the day brings.

So I thought I would give you a quick walk through of the projects (and the feelings) I have on the go at the moment, so you get a sense of just how mood specific it can be. 

NOTE: If your name is Simon or Julie - look away. Nothing for you to see here!! 

1. Comforted - or the long term when-there-is-nothing-else-to-do project. 

I have been making this scarf for over two years - and it will be stunning. It takes about 20 minutes to do a single row and by my calculation I have an astonishing number of rows left. It is made with cashmere though, as a special present and so it is worth spending the time. I always have this as a go-to when running out the door, when nothing else is in a fit state to take with me. This is always in it's bag, ready to go, waiting for a stitch. One stitch at a time. 

2. Love - or the bugger-this-is-boring-but-I-have-to-get-it-done project

I love love my SIL. She is sweet, kind, super-amazing smart and a great cook and one of the few people I would knit for outside of my kids. But this cardy is a hard hard slog. 5ply and nothing but stocking stitch ahead of me. I really want it to fit her and so I am slightly avoiding doing it as I'm worried it won't. Classic perfectionist avoidance - if I don't finish it then it won't be less than perfect, because it's not finished. Anyone else know about this kind of crazy??

Inspired - I'm sure you recognise the image. The irony is that I won't get to make this until the event is over.

3. Inspired - or the wow-I-feel-super-inspired-to-do-this-but-can-only-do-it-when-I-have-uninterupted-crafting-time project

I so want to start this quilt. I posted the fabrics and an idea for the design on instagram last week. But in order to do it I need some time. Not evening time as I make mistakes in the evening but about 2 hours of daylight. And it isn't happening. Weekends are out as I have a pile of small people and the daytime is currently taken up with my little side project. In my head I have already started; I have ironed the fabrics, done a small test run and it looks gorgeous. It sadly exists in pile form only - a pile that sings to me each time I walk past it in a longing and loving way.

Organised - Summer wardrobe basics

Organised - Colours and fabrics chosen by my little fella. 

4. Organised - or the kids-need-clothes project

This also exists in a pile at the moment (except for the one I did today which is pictured above). I know what needs to be done.  A couple of skirts and three pairs of small boy shorts in a hardy but soft light weight canvas or linen. No more will I be making shorts out of quilting cotton weight. That kid is playing soccer and keeps ripping the bottom's right out. Not sure how it's possible. I will be making my favourite boy's short pattern Pattern "l" from Happy Homemade. Seriously the best kid's Japanese pattern book of all time!

Fun - Love love love this pattern, fabric and small person

5. Enthused - or kids-don't-need-clothes-but-gee-this-fabric-is-pretty project

I have made a few of these dresses so far and see many more in my future. They cover the shoulders, are a sweet vintagy style and are simple to make. Pretty fabric and a great pattern = fun. Bring it on.

6. Motivated - or gee-I-can't-wait-until-this-is-finished project

I love this new knitting pattern called James. Super simple but with great shape. I started this twice and had to rip it out. Luckily I am doing this as a knitalong with my lovely friend Karen over in the US of A. Go and check her out. She is pretty amazing.....and she is now waaay ahead of me due to my false starts......competition and the promise of a super jumper is enough to keep anyone motivated.

Quick and dirty - new elastic into winter tights.

7. Frugal - or the *&%$!*& mending pile 

Nothing to say here except how on earth does this thing grow at the rate it does and why did I have so many children? 

Nurturing - Just because it will make her happy. 

8. Nurturing - or gee-I-love-my-small-people birthday project

A rabbit with a pink dress. While I love sewing felt (gorgeous feeling of the needle sliding through the felt), I hate starting it. Wrangling embroidery cotton is just plain annoying - unknotting the right colour from the big tangled mess. I might need to have a look in on Melissa's Embroidery Classes to see if she has some tips.  

But the small person will love love this rabbit. She has already named her Sophie. She and Sophie are to have matching pink dresses. I have also been asked to make baby Lucy (her doll) a matching quilt to the one she takes to bed each night. How could I say no?? 

9. Happy - or I-need-a-new-dress-or-two project

I have two to make. One is another Wiksten tank (See hundreds of gorgeous versions here). This tank is awesome. I wear this pattern more than anything else in my wardrobe. Over jeans, over leggings. Love it. (If you aren't confident about applying binding, working with light weight fabrics, french seams, handkerchief hems and beautiful finishes then sign on up to Sophie's Wiksten Tank workshop. You will finish the day with a beautiful tank and a feeling of pride and joy. What more could you ask for?). The other is a modified Darling Ranges dress by Megan Nielsen. I have made two of these before. The most wearable day to day dress ever. 

Adventurous - Started with some rough numbers and an idea.

10. Adventurous - or I-have-an-idea-and-I-want-to-try-it-out project

I've had this idea roaming around in my head for a while. Colourwork with a plain background and a single colour at a time. I love the contrast of colourwork done this way. The child doesn't need any more cardigans. But some scrap yarn was singing to me as I walked past and I really wanted to try this out. Just to see if I could make what was in my head. 

Excited - Gifts in the making.

11. Excited - or gee-I-created-this-craft-event-and-I-want-to-make-it-special project. 

No explanation necessary for this one.  

.....and there are more.

Who else needs more hours in the day??  Do you have different crafts for different moods?

Felicia x

Registration Update - Registration will close on October 10th. This lets our teachers better organise their classes and you organise your materials. Thanks for the registrations that have come in over the last few days! We will be sending the class confirmations and final materials list out to you all this week. 

An ode to sewing with knits

I just finished a big project in the last few days, which has lead to my mind wandering around thinking of what to start next. Often at the end of a big slow project I like a quick win as a little pick-me-up to get the engines firing. And I think I am heading to some knit sewing. So I thought I'd share with you why I think sewing with knit fabric is so awesome.  

I have been involved in crafty circles for a long time and am often talking about sewing/knitting/quilting. And what I hear is that many other crafters say knit fabric makes them nervous as it looks kinda tricky or that they don't have the right equipment (eg. overlocker) to do it properly. To that I say piffle - one of the main things I love about it is it's simplicity. I agree there is a little bit of an art to making it look great rather than super homemade (which is where Sophie's Sewing with Knits class comes in) but I guess I want to show you just what you can do if you take the time (or class) to learn a few basics. 

Nani Iro knit leggings for my small boy before he got big and decided leggings weren't that cool....

Nani Iro knit fabric

In the interests of full disclosure I should say upfront that I have never owned a working overlocker nor do I have a coverstitch machine. And also that my mum was a Knitwit sewing teacher when I was little which is why I don't have the "sewing with knits" fear. It's not because I am naturally fearless.

So again with the lists....

Why I love sewing with knits

1. It is so easy and quick

Knit sewing means that you don't have to finish your seams as the fabric doesn't fray.  It means that you don't have to hem if you don't want to. I generally also don't bother to pin unless I am working with a curve. All this saves so much time! 

Based on some of the photo's I have posted on this blog you might be thinking I am a careful seamstress. Knit sewing is where I let it all go. Slapdash is a word that could often be applied to my knit sewing - however the great thing about it is that it is really hard to tell. 

2. Knit sewing is great for kid clothes

Kids like to be comfortable. Leggings, tshirts, shorts, pyjamas - all of these can be made incredibly quickly using knit fabric. A kid's tee takes about an hour's sewing time....

Kid's winter dress which is super comfy and sparkles. 

What more could you ask for?

3. Knit sewing is flexible and forgiving - fudge away people!

To state the obvious - because the fabric is stretch then there is more flexibility in the fit. I made my small boy shorts that have fitted him from when he was 3 till now - he is 7. I got four years out of 20 minutes work. The last tee I made for me - when I realised it was a bit big I just took in the sides until I was happy and cut off the excess. Not something you can easily do with woven fabrics.

A great example of how forgiving stretch sewing can be would be the last pair of knit kids shorts I made for my little fella to wear to school. I generally make these out of my partners old tshirts and they involve four seams in total - FOUR seams!! One for each leg, one joining the two legs and then the fourth seam is to make the casing for the elastic. I don't even bother to hem them which means that they take 30minutes total to make. And while I can hear you saying "what a laaazy crafter", I would shoot back a "they only last a couple of months before he has put another hole in them therefore hemming seems like overkill".....y'know?

Anyway back to my story. Last pair of shorts I accidentally sewed the two legs pieces together in totally the wrong way. Because it was stretch fabric, and it only had a 1cm seam, rather than unpicking I just cut off the seam. And it made no difference at all.

These were made when I had my last baby almost 3yrs ago from a free internet pattern. I made up a size 4, used their size 2 and a newborn size. Small people were super chuffed with these....bless. 

4. You can make things that fit you in fabrics you really like.

I often find that tshirts and tops I buy from the shops stretch out of shape as the quality of the fabric isn't that great, even from good stores. With stores like Tessuti and the Fabric Store in our capital cities, some great local fabric stores, and online shops like Kelani**, all stocking stunning knit fabrics, you can make something you will love in beautiful good quality fabric.  And you can make it to fit. In the time it takes to go to the shops to look for the perfect striped tshirt you need, you can have whipped one up.  

**Elissa has got the most gorgeous organic knit fabric in at the moment!!

Sophie's amazing leggings.

Top pattern by Megan Nielsen. Sewn by Sophie.

5. Once you have the basics there is nothing to it. 

It is simple sewing at it's best. The kind for when you need a quick win or you only have an hour or your girl child desperately needs a new skirt by tomorrow in red for her special day at school. 

I thought I would finish up with some resources and an idea.... 

Some Resources

There are great patterns for women. These are just a small sample.

• Darling Ranges Briar
• Tessuti's new Boat Neck tee*** plus their old school freestyle tee
• Tessuti's Anita Ponti Pant  
• Grainline's Hemlock tee
• Sewaholic's Renfrew top
• Kitschy Coo's Lady Skater Dress
• Skirt As A Top's Scoop Neck Tee 

And for kids have a look at these. 

• Banyan tee - what will be covered in Sophie's class
• Flashback skinny tee
• Go to Leggings 

***while you are there have a look at their other patterns. I love their new Suzy Pant - such a great shape.  

An Idea for Monday

I really want you to get how easy this type of sewing is. So I've come up with an idea - as I have a science degree I thought we could do a little experiment. I have an hour or two on Monday so I thought I would make the Grainline Hemlock tee in a piece of gorgeous Tessuti stretch cotton and give you "live" photo updates on instagram and facebook as I did it. Just so you could see how quick it is to whip up your own knit garments.  

I've already mentioned it in the post but just in case you didn't hear the shameless plug I thought I would let you know that there is still some space in Sophie's Sewing with Knits class. If you fancy coming to a weekend crafting retreat that is. At the end of the class you would be able to tackle ANY of the patterns I mention above with confidence and come out with a great looking garment. Yeah Sophie!

Any other suggestions for patterns or fabric resources?  

Felicia x

How to choose a sweater pattern

Alrighty then. This is another post about knitting - I'll do one on sewing soon but this one is close to my heart and I have been thinking about it over the last few days....so stay with me...

I am about to have to choose another major knitting project. I like to have a variety of stuff on the needles. One epic project (the current one is now over two years old!), one for the kids (colourwork cardigan), something for someone else (a cardigan for my SIL which I have been slowly working through), a couple of smaller car type projects (baby hats) and finally something for me that gives-me-immense-joy-to-knit, and is very exciting because I really want it to exist. And the last one is the project that I am trying to pick at the moment. 

I've learnt over the years that picking a sweater pattern is an art and a science! There are some lessons that I have learnt that I want to share with you. And the reason I think this is important enough to write a blog post about, is that each of these choices, the pattern, the yarn, the size and making any necessary modifications, can have an effect that will ultimately lead to a OHMYGODIT'SSOPERFECT_I'LLWEARITFOREVER situation or a MASSIVE_BUGGER! If you are going to the trouble of knitting a cardy or a jumper, you really want all that time and yarn to result in the former feeling.

I want you to know before you read on that I now manage to get this right most of the time. I don't want this to be a demoralising post ;-). I generally make things I love - but I do put the time in before I start, to make sure I have all these points covered!  I'd love to hear in the comments if you can think of any others..... 

A somewhat fail - I got the size wrong! Brooklyn Tweed's Stranger Cardigan. Knitted by me.

So here are my tips for ending up with a garment you love; 

1. Only choose a style you wear! Now this seems to be stating the bleeding obvious but I think this is the single biggest mistake I make. I have made it over and over and over again. I love the look of a pattern - I love it on the model - I love how it is styled - I think that it would be interesting to knit. BIG MISTAKE!  I love the process of knitting it but then don't wear the garment. Ever. It sits in the cupboard because every time I put it on I don't feel like me. 

What you need to do is to think about what you own already - and what you love   - and find patterns that fall kinda within this category. Venture outside what you have a little, but think carefully about the garment shapes and weights of garments you wear all the time.

I have included a small selection below that fit into the fail category... There are more - please don't judge me - or do. I don't really mind. I realise it is idiotic - I'm highlighting this as a community service! Please note; I really love all these patterns. They just aren't my style and sit unworn in the cupboard.

I don't wear swing cardigans! Pattern is Olivia by Kim Hargreaves. Knitting by me.

I don't wear thick round neck lace cardigans! Love this pattern by Nadia Crétin-Léchenne

I don't wear shawl collared cardigans! Pattern is Forestry by Vogue knitting. Knitting by me. 

I don't wear flappy side bits! The lovely Vitamin D by Heidi Kirrmaier.

2. Get the size right. Again it sounds like I am stating the obvious but this is a bit tricky, especially when you are just starting.

The best way is to find a similar cardigan or jumper in your wardrobe that you like the fit of. Then measure the chest width of the existing garment. Knit the size that is similar to the measurement you get, in the pattern. Don't just measure your chest and go with what the pattern says. People like different amounts of ease (tightness/looseness) and the only way to get this right is to measure something you like that is similar. 

Other things that will help - read what the designer says about the pattern and the amount of ease that is needed. This is why the cabled cardigan at the top of this post failed. I ignored what it said and thought that the stated ease was waaaay to much so did the smaller size. And there is not enough ease. I love it so much I wear it all the time still but it niggles me every time I put it on. My brain says "idiot!" (in a friendly bemused way) each time I put it on.....which is no way to feel about something you have spent hours knitting. 

Below is another fine example....can you see the problem? Again I wear this one - but never bothered to put the buttons on as I can't really do them up. 

Problem? The lovely Coraline by Ysolda. Knitting again by me.

3. Swatch! I know, I know; it's boring and you could be knitting. But if you are going to spend hours and hours knitting a sweater then make sure you get the gauge right. Suck it up and do a big swatch. Big! And then wash and dry it. Measure it to the half a stitch in a couple of places. This, really is the key! Try to think of it as part of the exciting  "dreaming" stage of sweater knitting. And don't go by the needle size suggested in the pattern. Change the needle until you get the right gauge for the pattern using your yarn of choice.

4. Match your yarn and pattern! What am I talking about.....well, it isn't just getting the gauge right that makes a difference to the wearability of the sweater. Look at the properties (alpaca, wool, silk %) of the suggested yarn of the pattern and find something similar. This will mean the pattern drapes and wears how it is supposed to.

Another classic mistake is to think "oooohhh that yarn is so soft" and then try to make a sweater out of it. A supersoft untwisted yarn is great for a hat or a cowl but it will end up being a super pilly disgusting mess of a jumper that you won't wear. 

Weird pose - I was trying to show how the shoulders fitted. I loved this cardy. The yarn was a bit "meh" though. Pattern is Bailey by Amy Christoffers.

One tip I have for a flowy drapey cardigan is to use something with some alpaca in it. My all time favourite cardigan is an alpaca silk - 3 years in it hasn't pilled, drapes wonderfully and is wearing super well. 

I have included a photo of the Minimalist cardigan below. And the problem with this one was that I chose a yarn that met gauge but I didn't wear because it was just too damn thick to have 3/4 sleeves. It meant I was hot and cold at the same time - all the time. My partner got sick of me complaining about it and made me rip it. Yes - I ripped the whole cardigan out and reused the yarn to make the Forestry above.....which was another fail. Ho Hum. 

Minimalist Cardigan by Ruthie ?? 

5. Modify. Goes without saying probably, but change anything you need to to make it work for you. Body length, sleeve length, waist shaping. It's your  knitting so make sure you end up with a shape you wear.

6. Advice for beginner garment knitters.

a. Make your first sweater or cardy pattern a seamless top-down one. Don't be scared by top-down. Follow the instructions and if you get stuck then use youtube. It is very hard to judge the right length of sleeves and the body when you are knitting from the bottom. Knitting in this way means that when you finish the knitting all you have to do is weave in the ends. There is no sewing up and you will be able to try it on all through the process which will mean you can be sure it is going to fit. Win!

b. Choose a pattern with a gauge of about 18-20 stitches. Yes there are lots of pretty patterns outside this but this will ensure you get a quick win. And you need quick wins when you are beginning. Knitting a sweater for a year can be demoralising. And knitting should be all about joy!

c. Choose a yarn you love. Don't buy a cheap yarn. Some people think this is counter intuitive; the old I'm-only-a-beginner-so-I-don't-want-to-spend-too-much theory. Knitting is a lot about the process. Feeling and watching a gorgeous yarn between your fingers for hours on end make the process an absolute pleasure. Not so much with a blah yarn. 

d. Buy a good needle. For the same reasons as I mentioned in point c. A good needle will have a flexible soft cord and a good smooth join. Please don't buy one of those ugly grey circular needles. They will make you miserable! A lovely Addi Turbo or Knitpicks needle will give you many hours of pleasure. They are worth the price!!

e. Choose a pattern you really love even if you think it might be a little tricky! This will help you with your motivation when times get tough. Use youtube to learn the bits you don't know. Youtube taught me how to knit.

Does anyone else have any suggestions, failures and successes they would like to share? I'd love to hear them....

Felicia x