Simple Sewing 101 - Part 4 - Pre-Alterations

I'm so excited to have seen your tops popping up on instagram - thanks for pinging me with your successes! Makes me glad I got around to posting this little series. If you feel like being inspired yourself then go have a look at the hastag #simplesewing101. 

Many of you have been asking about alterations and there is quite a bit to say - so much so that I got stuck writing this as it felt too massive. And I really wanted to have good pictures for you and I haven't had time to take them. So I've finally decided to bite the bullet, use what I've got, and split it up into some more managable pieces. I just saw that I actually started to write this post two months ago so apologies for the wait.  

I'm wanted to start with the woven Hemlock alteration I do as that was the first top in the list and go from there. But I found there were a few things to say first. The mashup will be posted on Tuesday. 

As I've mentioned before (but really want to stress again) these are not proper dressmaking or drafting alterations. However this type of alteration fits into the spirit of Simple Sewing 101 - the idea that you can make beautiful wearable garments with very few skills. And complicated isn't necessarily best. 

Pattern drafting material

I draw all my patterns up on light interfacing that has no stick on either side. I call it Vilene but I think that is a brand name. I just ask my local sewing store for interfacing for drafting. I often get something slightly different each time but that is totally fine. I purchase about 10m at a time and get them to put it on a roll. It lasts me a year-ish. And is super inexpensive. 

The reason you want to draft on this stuff (rather than say paper) is that it is more easily manipulatable. You can fold up the bottom, fold to take out width, etc, without having to redraft the pattern or dealing with the stiffness that is paper. Once I've stuck my pattern pieces together (if it is a pdf) then I draft off the pattern onto the interfacing. It might seem like an unnecessary step but will save you time if you make the pattern more than once. You can fiddle around with your alterations on the vilene before you cut it.
 

The interfacing is what you see in this picture. Remember to write the pattern name, size, piece name, and then cutting instructions. AND any alterations you have made. I then keep these pieces in A4 envelopes. 

Make a Muslin ;)

Look I am totally lazy about this - my muslins are always wearable rather than just muslins. Each time I make a pattern for the first time I do so out of a less precious fabric. I then use the result a. as a garment, and b. as a learning tool.
 

Use your existing clothing to figure out your measurements

Measure similar tops you have in the wardrobe. Measure the width of the bust, the width of the hem, the height of the armhole, the width of the hip of a tunic (if you are looking to make something like a dress Tova or Wiksten Tank), or even the depth of a neckline that makes you happy. Write these measurements down and refine them each time you make a garment. I know for example that I need at least 4 inches of ease at the hip of the Tova or Tank or anything that goes over my behind so they don't stick to my bum in that super middle-aged nana kinda way. 

Another useful measurement is to take length. I use this measurement all the time for both sewing and knitting. I measure from the shoulder point next to the neck down to the bottom of favourite tops, tunics, frocks. For skirts I measure from my natural waist to the hem length I like. Again these measurements are taken from my existing clothing. This saves time, fiddling around and fabric as you have a better idea of whether you need to adjust the pattern before you make your muslin. 

The important thing is that you write them down. I think I will remember and never ever do. These measurements will become more useful in time as you have more practice and make more things.

And remember your seam allowance. In many patterns it is 1/2", whereas in others it is 1cm. You need to make sure that your pattern has the width/length you want PLUS the seam allowance. I have screwed this up so many times it has become automatic. One thing I have learnt from much experience is never redraft at night. Unless you have some kind of freaky brain most people are too tired at night to for the logic required to redraft. And no wine.
 

Redraft 

Use your the measurements you took from your existing clothing, and then your muslin, to figure out what you want to change.

Is your Wiksten Tank flashing too much boob for your liking - then redraw it so that the neckline is higher. Is the hem too high at the front and low at the back - then redraw them. Don't like the width of the straps - make them thinner. You can do it. Easy peasy…..

The key to the redraft is the intersection with an edge - generally you need to make sure you intersect the pattern edge at a perpendicular 90degrees. Say you redraft the neckline of the Wiksten Tank you need to extend the centre line up towards the shoulder and then redraw it an inch or two higher making sure you intersect the fold line at 90degrees. If you don't do this you will end up with a point or a chunk out of the fabric. *

Before you redraft, note the angle at which the pattern intersects the centreline or shoulder line and choose the same angle. 

The only thing I would say is that you will make mistakes. Mistakes are OK - expect them and don't worry when you do. I make them regularly and each time I learn. I have been known to throw something half made in the scrap bin. Perfect the pattern using cheaper less precious fabrics first and then make it up in the special stuff. 

You can do this for hemlines, necklines, armholes (of tanks), sleeve widths, sleeve lengths. There are good tutorials about. Check out Grainline, By Hand London and Colette as good starting points. 
 

Tuesday's post will be the woven Hemlock/Wiksten tank mashup post.

 

Felicia x

* I'm not sure I'm explaining this well so please ask questions if I've confused you.

Simple sewing 101 - Part 3 - Independent Sewing Companies.

Little bit of a diversion today tigers. I wrote the Simple Sewing 101 - Alteration posts as I promised you ages ago, but they need a good edit and I don't have the brain space at the moment. So rather than confuse you with a long scattered ramble I've put this together till I can pull it together. 

Simple Sewing 101- Tops and Simple Sewing 101 - For Beginners are the two previous posts in this series.

Below are an extended list of independent pattern companies that are worth having a look at if you are interested in sewing your own clothes. The list in the previous Simple Sewing - Part 2 post was aimed at beginners due to their excellent instructions.

I've tried many of these pattern companies. Of the ones I haven't tried, there is at least one pattern in their range I want to try. For this wider list I can't guarantee that each company writes well-written patterns (I know most of them do!) so do a google search first for bloggers reviews, and check the relevant instagram hastag for patterns you want to try. There you will get some honest feedback about issues, sizing and things to look for. 

At the bottom of the post I've included a list of patterns I have sewing crushes on just to give you a place to start if you think we have similar taste. 

Independent Pattern Companies

Tessuti

Papercut 

Megan Nielsen

Mouse House Creations

Sewaholic

Cali Faye Collections

Salme

Merchant and Mills

Collette

Victory Patterns

Marilla Walker

Christine Haynes

SewDIY

Noodlehead

A Verb For Keeping Warm

Republique Du Chiffon

Wiksten

Grainline

True Bias

Tillie and the Buttons

Papercut

Named

Oliver and S/Lisette/Liesel and Co

Made By Rae

By Hand London

Jamie Christina

Sew Liberated

Make It Perfect

Pattern Runway

April Rhodes

100 Acts of Sewing

Patterns That I'm desperate to sew! (but probably not going to get to*)

Marthe Blouse - by Republique Du Chiffon. Totally obsessed with this one - maybe using hoarded  Liberty?

Morris Blazer - Grainline. I've printed it out but run out of time....argh.

Playtime Tunic - DONE! x 3 - Oliver and S

Lou Box Top - Sew DIY

Woven Linden - Grainline

Ilsey skirt - by newcomer Marilla Walker. This one is free.

Basics Tank - by Cali Faye Collection. I am super excited about this one. I don't want to jinx it but I think the shape looks almost perfect.

Enjoy and tell me if you think I've missed something super obvious.

Felicia x

* I'm headed off camping so no sewing for a month or so - flight is on Monday.

Simple Sewing 101 - Part 2 - For Beginners

Quite a few of you pinged me on social media after my post earlier on this week telling me that you were just starting on your handmade wardrobe journey AND you really really wanted to sew more of your clothes. As I said in the last Sewing 101 post, I've observed a couple of good friends start the journey towards a handmade wardrobe over the last few years, and there have been a couple of common "mistakes are how you learn" type moments. So to save you guys a little time here are my top four important pieces of advice before you start.

As always - these are just my suggestions. They may not work for you or you may think they are a load of rubbish. Feel free to comment!

1. Fabrics are the key to making beautiful things with simple sewing.

The reason that all those tops are so lovely and I love them, is that all of them are made from lovely fabric. Simple clothes only work if the fabric is lovely, as it is all about the shape, the drape and the print.

Take the time to find fabric that is a good weight for clothes. Feel the fabric of your favourite tops in your wardrobe - this will give you an idea of what you like. For tops I generally use 100% cotton or 100% linen or a blend. Depending on what you are making look for something a little lighter than a quilting cotton. 

Here is the mistake that often gets made - Your fabric doesn't need to be expensive, but it does need to not be a quilting cotton. A common mistake is to look at all the pretty quilting fabric on the shelves and decide they will be just the thing for your first project. Quilting cottons are lovely but they are made for quilting not clothes. When you are quilting you don't want the fabric to move; you want it to be stable. With clothes you are often looking for drape and movement. Not always but often and generally that is true of tops. 

I buy Liberty Tana Lawn sometimes and for those of you going "it's lovely but sooo expensive just remember that for a Wiksten Tank made from Liberty you need to spend about $30. $30 and then you have a Liberty tank. You can't argue with those maths. 

Fabrics that are good to start with include any kind of lightish cotton - a voile, a lawn, some kind of shirting fabric, a light chambray can be lovely, or even a double gauze. Cotton is good because it is relatively stable (unlike linen) but it isn't slippery (like silk). 

Fabrics from L to R: 100% cotton, homespun cotton, light cotton, light cotton, double gauze with a linen back, linen, double gauze, Liberty lawn, double gauze, Liberty Lawn.

2. Good seam allowances are the train to happiness!

I talked about this in detail in Step 1 of the first Sewing 101.  But this really is the key so take your time to work out how to do this. 

3. Buy patterns from good INDEPENDENT companies

I wrote a post last year that talked a little about how we used to be surrounded by people that made. That making was part of life for many people. And that there were people around us that had skills we could call on. Which meant that pattern companies didn't need to put as much info into their patterns. Many old school pattern companies still write patterns like this. They assume that you know what you are doing. Which is fine when you do, but not so fine when you don't. 

Independent pattern designers have changed the game in terms of how patterns are written. They are writing patterns that are well written and teach you things as you make. They generally also have lots of diagrams. 

Some suggestions for independent pattern companies include Collette, Grainline, Tessuti, Wiksten, By Hand London, Made By Rae,  Liesel & Co, Megan Nielsen - all of these companies are thoughtful about how they put together a pattern and go through it step by step.

There are many other new independent designers popping up but as I haven't used them I don't want to recommend their patterns. I know you guys will have more (that you have tested) so please add them in the comments and I'll update the post with your suggestions.

And then there are the Japanese pattern books. However, while I love them and use them regularly for kidswear, they assume a lot of knowledge and are probably better after you have built up your confidence a bit.

4. Little things make a big difference

So now for some simple tips that will make your life happier - newbie or not. 

1. Trim your threads as you go. This one is a little life changing if this isn't something you already do! I keep a little bowl right next to my machine to put them in.
2. Iron your seams as directed. This makes a big difference to your outcome.
3. Use a new needle for each (major) project.

Another tip (that is a little tricky to explain) is to think about flow. Read ahead in your pattern and figure out whether you can gather your steps together. Pin as many pieces together as you can when you are pinning, so you then have a pile of things to sew when you sit at the machine. Sew them all before heading to the ironing board. Do your ironing all in one go and then do your next load of pinning. For me, this makes the whole process feels more focused and simpler, rather than the up down up down up down of following the pattern instructions. 

Modeste made a couple of good suggestions in the comments of the last post -

1. Ignore all the 2/3hr thing. It will take as long as it takes - so true!
2. Do a muslin in a fabric that has a similar drape to the fabric you plan on using - I totally agree but I don't do it very often. For any given pattern, my first muslin is often my first wearable version. I just make it in a fabric that is not a favourite.

Next up in sewing 101, I'll start talking alterations. In the mean time - do you have any advice for newbies?

Felicia x

Simple Sewing 101 - Part 1 - Tops

So here it is – a way of achieving a simple handmade wardrobe while improving your skills one by one. As I've been writing the post I've had more and more thoughts about stuff I want to tell you, so I think there will be more posts. Definitely one/a few on how I (super simply) alter these patterns to fit my body, another with some more advice for beginners and maybe ……well we will see where we get to. 

For those of you that already make your clothes then this may not be so useful but for those of you that are beginning hopefully it provides some tips that help you on your way. Making these tops in order will build on your skills one by one!

The alterations post/s will detail how to do simple alterations that can customise these patterns for a better fit but for now I will simply list the alterations I make at the bottom of each step.

All the photos today have been ripped off my phone so apologies for the quality. 

A collarless Wiksten Tova.

Step 1 – Advice for beginners about seams 

This possibly seems obvious but I’ve watched a few people learn to sew over the last few years and I think that not enough time is spent learning this. A perfect (or even a good) seam allowance is the key to sewing. What does this mean in practice? It means that the two raw edges you are sewing together are in line AND that you are using the seam guide on your machine to ensure the seam is exactly the right distance from the raw edges.  

Learning to do this is part practice/part science. If you are new then please pin your edges – a lot. Pin either end of your seam, then in the middle and then in the middle of those pins. Don’t start at one end and go to the other. 

Use two light hands as you sew - a bit like how Jamie Oliver dresses a salad - nice and light.

Your left hand should be flatish and out wide, resting lightly on the fabric, not pushing or pulling. Guiding the fabric is how you should think about your hands. Your right hand should be controlling the raw edges. This can mean a few things. Sometimes you end up with extra fabric on the top which you can gently nudge under the foot as you sew. Other times you will need to make sure your edges are matching and hold them together as you sew in between the pins. Practice is the key here. And pinning. 

You need to find a balance in your sewing speed. Fast enough that you are able to manipulate the fabric under the foot to go around a corner but not so fast you aren’t accurate.

When you hit a large angle you need to stop with your needle in and pivot, making sure after you have turned it that you are the right distance away from the new raw edge. I still get this wrong sometimes and need to turn back, do an extra stitch and then pivot again. We are always learning, aren't we? 

When you are going around a sharp curve you may not just be able to guide the fabric – rather you may have to pivot three or four or eight times with a tiny movement each pivot. It may be the case you pivot, sew two stitches, pivot again etc.

Put your pins in sideways – so perpendicular to the raw edge with the pin tip on the outside. The reason you do this is so it is easy to remove with your right hand when the pin is about to go under the foot. Don't drive over your pins. 

Practice all this stuff on scraps; go around corners and follow some squiggles (just draw them on the fabric) and lots of straight lines….. Get this right and you are on the train to being a great sewer! And joy!

Patterns to try: Pillowcases are always a good one. I love the Purl Bee one here. 

step 2 - A woven Hemlock Tee by Grainline

You will learn: Straight stitch and zigzag. And a bias edge for the courageous (you can do it!!).

I made this for the first time a few weeks ago and I am totally in love with it. This is my new favourite top! And as a sewer I would say that it is simply the-biggest-bang-for-your-sewing-buck you can get. It took about 2hrs from start to finish and this was only because of how I did the neck. It could have been quicker! 

This pattern is perfect for beginners - it is about as simple as sewing gets! Every seam is a straight seam until you hit the neck. I finished every seam with a simple zig zag but if you knew what you were doing and wanted to get fancy you could easily French seam it. You do need to do a simple pivot at the underarm when you are sewing the side seams (leave the needle in the fabric, lift the feet and turn 90degrees) but other than that it is all plain sailing.

So the neck. I'm going to talk about two methods. Both equally valid. 

Jaime and Amber from Fancy Tiger talk about their versions here. They state that they fold the raw edge over and stitch it down. How I would suggest you do this is to use my hemming trick. First sew a basting stitch around the neckline 1cm away from the raw edge. Next finish the raw edges with a zigzag. Fold the edge over at the basting line, iron and pin. Stitch down neck edge by doing a straight stitch about 8mm from the edge.

I did it a little differently - using a double folded bias. For those of you that don’t know how to do a bias edge have a look at Grainline’s amazing bias tutorial (Grainline is one of the best sites on the internet for incredibly well written patterns and tutorials. Yay Jenn!)

That said I did it in an even lazier way that Jenn's tutorial. I cut a 3cm strip of fabric on the bias. I folded it in half with the wrong sides together and ironed it. I then pinned it to the neckline with the bias raw edge pinned to the right side of the fabric. Sew them together with a 6mm seam. I understitched (as in the tutorial)the seam allowance to the bias and then simply ironed it over and top-stitched it down from the right side. Grainline’s is tidier – mine is still lovely and quicker.  

I know the Hemlock is a one size pattern with a finished bust of 42". If you are outside this size then skip to step 3 on the list, or if you are more advanced then adding a couple of cm to the body and sleeves would be easy peasy.  

Alterations to consider: French seams, proper bias, swing top, increased sleeve width, bigger sizes and the shirt tail hem.
Other similar patterns to try: Purl Soho Boxy Tee which does the bias in the same way as I mentioned above. However I understitched it as in the Grainline tutorial AND I don't topstitch the bias down at 1/4" but rather a make the seam allowance a little larger to make sure I have caught all the raw edges inside the bias.

My favourite (modified) Wiksten tank which I will tell you about in a future post. 

Step 3 - Wiksten Tank by Wikstenmade

You will learn: French Seams and beautiful bias edge.

The way this pattern is written gives you a beautifully finished top. It will make you feel like a total champion to have made something so well. It does take some time - for such a simple garment - but it is so well worth it. It is well written and you get to learn how to do French seams. Who doesn’t love those?

Follow the pattern exactly as it is written - the only change I make is to use the bias tutorial from Grainline I linked to above to do the understitching. It just makes the finish that little bit more professional. AND follow my hemming trick for the hem using the extra trick I've added at the bottom of the post for a shirt tail hem. 

Make your first one a muslin out of a nice light fabric – but not a favourite fabric as I’ve found I needed to play with the fit a little to get it just right for me.

Alterations: Raise the neck if you don’t fancy having your boobs on show. Alter the length. Fix the width of the back.
Other similar patterns to try: Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank, Tessuti Ruby, Sorbetto by Colette

My favourite (modified) Scout Tee with long sleeves

Step 4 - Scout Tee by Grainline

You will learn: a set-in sleeve.

I have made many of them, wear them all the time and have written a post about how much I love it. This is the perfect replacement to dagging around in a tshirt. It has a lovely shape.

Normally I just do straight seams and finish them with a simple zig zag. I use my hemming trick for the hem and the sleeve hem.

So the new skill – the set-in sleeve. This pattern has great pictures and shows you step by step how to do this.

The only thing I would add to Step 14 for first timers doing a set-in sleeve is that you need to pin first - pin your underarm seams, pin at the notches - before then pulling the basting threads. When pulling the basting threads make sure you are pulling the two threads attached to the wrong side of the basting lines. Then smooth the gather out with your fingers to make sure that at a ½” from the raw edge the fabric is flat. Sew the seam with the sleeve on top to make sure you don’t catch any of the fabric. And unpick it if you do. 

Alterations: scoop the neck, add the wiksten tank curve to the bottom, lengthen the sleeve.
Other similar patterns to try: The Lou Box Top is new from Sew DIY and it is even simpler than the Scout as it doesn't have a set-in sleeve. But it ends up looking a bit similar. I am totally obsessed with this version of it. 

Step 5 - Alice Top/Dress by Tessuti

You will learn: Gathers, and to pay attention to what the pattern says about seam allowances.

This pattern is also new to me. I've made it twice now - and I love it! The construction is interesting and rather fun. While you are making it the first time it can feel a little slow but then it comes together beautifully and super fast at the end. Such a winner. 

There are two things you need to know about this pattern!

1. You need to pay attention to the seam allowance as it changes three times as you go through the pattern. It is clearly detailed in the instructions. There is a really sensible reason for it (that in some places in a garment you want wider seams from a construction point of view than others) but for the beginner it is something to watch out for. 
2. The sizing is a little wacky. I made an XS and it fitted well. Normally I am a S or a M. Read people's review on the internet before giving this pattern a crack. 

So the gather - it is not much of a step up – you can easily do this! You ran a basting line for the set in sleeve for the Scout Tee – gathering is the same.  

This is how I do a gather – and I ignore any pattern that tells me otherwise.

Run your basting lines 5mm either side of what you seam allowance is (I understand I am changing from inches to cm. Please forgive me - I use both). So if you have a ½” seam allowance run your basting lines at 3/8” and 5/8”. Don’t pull the basting threads yet – pin first. Divide the two pieces you are going to sew together into 4 sections (or 8 for a larger seam). Pin the raw edges together connecting the four pins. THEN pull the basting threads together. Smooth the gather out so that it sits flat between the pins and so that the gather looks even between the two basting lines. When the two pieces of fabric are the same length and flat add more pins. I put them in about every inch. Again sew from the side of the gather.

I get perfect gathers doing this!

Alterations: Length, leaving out the arm facing. 
Other similar patterns to try: Ruby by Made By Rae, Valerie by Tessuti

My first Tova was a complete copy of one I saw on the Tessuti blog. 

Step 6 - Wiksten Tova by Wikstenmade

You will learn: To sew a placket and to sew in a bib.

I love this pattern - it is well written and finished beautifully (as is usual for Jenny's patterns). So gorgeous and so wearable. You only need follow it as written to get a great garment. There are hundreds of gorgeous versions of this under google images so go take a look for some inspiration.

You have all the skills to do this! A gather, a set-in sleeve and some straight sewing is all you need except for one slightly trickier bit. 

The tricky bit is attaching the front of the garment to the bib. Take your time, pin a lot and be willing to unpick if you get stuck. * I'll update this when I find ace tutorial someone did. 

Alterations: The dress requires an arse adjustment for people shaped like me (and Jenn xx), no collar, sleeve alteration.  

Jenn's gorgeous Tova with her improvised sleeve. I love it so much. 

So there you have it. My favourite wear-everyday tops - with not a button or a zip among them - as a sewing 101 for tops. They are so simple that most of them only have a couple of pattern pieces!

Ask me your questions and I will try to help. Or tell me more about what you want to know. 

Happy simple sewing.

Felicia x

PS. If you decide to make any of these tops and are posting to instagram then include the hashtag #simplesewing101 so I can see what you are up too!