Planning only takes you so far.

This post is a diary entry. A visual reminder for when I inevitably forget this stellar piece of wisdom. Which I will. I seem to forget it periodically, and get stuck in the planning phase of a project. Stuck going round and round and round in my head.

So let's put it out there - into the bloggisphere (spelling anyone?) - where I will inevitably run into it when I am wandering around in past posts trying to find the one where I mentioned some "useful" thing. And here is what I want to say. 

“Planning only gets you so far because you cannot plan the PERFECT outcome. You need to MAKE it to see if the materials, design and form you have chosen work together. Or not. The making is where the rubber hits the road. Pre-trip planning will help but really you need to be on the road to know what the conditions are like and what it feels like to be there. ”

— Felicia Semple - just now.

I'm trying to gauge swatch for a second Colourwork Cardy; a few of you have mentioned that you wouldn't mind a pattern? So I'm going to try to make some time to do it. I have a simple plan to make another but I have sat on it for a good while. I already have the pattern - cause I wrote it as I was making it. I have materials - I purchased some naturally dyed yarn in an assortment of colours when I was in the UK last year.  And there the project stalled.

You see the colours, well they aren't quite the same. They are pretty and I thought they might work. I've put them next to one another in the shop. Next to one another in my sewing room. I have put them up against the last Colourwork Cardy, and then up against a picture of the last Colourwork Cardy. And they are similar but different. I have sat them all in a row. I have sat them in piles. I planned and thought. 

Then there was the matter of gauge. The yarn from the prototype and the yarn I'm using are both DK. Should  be easy but I was worried as they had a different composition. Would they work or wouldn't they. 

What happens to me when I'm not sure if something will work is I come down with a massive dose of procrastination. A terrible illness to befall a maker who really wants to make a thing. The not-knowingness causing the not-makingness which in turn causes the not-knowingness. And there I sat. Convincing myself that what I was really doing was planning. 

The more I want to love the project, the more I'm excited about it, often the longer I procrastinate/plan. 

Until I realised. No more planning was needed. No more planning would help. The only thing to be done was the making. 

This week's example - colourwork Cardy Mark II

To make a pattern for the Colourwork cardy I need to gauge swatch with the new yarn. So I'm doing that by knitting some hats. The first on 4mm needles and the second on 4.5 to see if I can match the gauge of the last cardy while still liking the fabric it creates. 

And then there is the colours. Piles of colours only help a little. Until I actually start knitting with them I have no idea how they will combine. In a ball they are super saturated. Knitted up they have light yarn between them and a whole lot of negative space. And they look totally different. Sometimes a colour sits beautifully next to another and makes it sing. Other times, not so much. Making actually allows you to see the subtleties of the colour combinations - not only are you asking if the colours go together, but how should they go together. An intense colour used too thickly can look too heavy. Too heavy and it makes the whole hat seem more contrasty than I want it to look. I can't see this in the planning.   

So I made the first hat and I'm not thrilled with the result. It's OK. I can see it has potential but I need to refine. The bright red is too bright (it isn't in the pictures of all the yarn above). I need to mute the whole thing down and just have one or two hero colours. The blue and maybe one other. I've swapped the red out for another couple of colours I thought wouldn't work in the planning phase.

Trying to mute the palate down by using a mushroom instead of the blue at the edge. This didn't work either ;). One thing that had to go was the brightest red, which softened the whole thing up. 

Combination of colours and patterns get refined each time I them. Yesterday's example was the crown shaping; I wrote out a shaping idea and started knitting it up. It was awkward and lopsided. I ripped it out, did another chart, and then another chart and started knitting again. Again it didn't work. I realised while I was knitting, that the blue lines were going to be a much bigger feature than the decreases, which was the opposite of my plan or what I thought. I knitted it up and then colour weighting was wrong. I ripped it out, did three more charts and then finally knitted what you saw in the instagram photo. I still think the blue lines are too heavy but I couldn't rip again. This version is done. It is a sweet hat for a small person. I am however going to try something different on the Colourwork Hat Mark II to see if I can crack it. I've planned it, charted it and now all that is left to do is the making; the only way to tell if the planning is sound or not. 

Charts 4/7 and 5/7. 

Chart 7/7 that I modified even as i was knitting it. 

 

THE MAKING FEEDBACK LOOP OF LEARNING
 

So the important takeaway that I need to remember is to….

“Plan, then make, then revise, then plan and then make. And continue until in the feedback loop of learning until the project works. ”

The whole process has simply reminded me about how important it is to get things out of my head and into my fingers. I can think and think but there is something about watching a physical product come together that solidifies an idea or shows you where the flaws in your design are.  The making provides the essential link in the feedback loop of creating something I will love. 

Do you get stuck in the planning? or are you more like my friend Jenn who just makes?

Felicia

Stash Less - Falling Off the Wagon

In the last Stash Less post I wrote about how I thought I had found the key - and it was true. Having the budget meant that there was opportunity cost in everything I purchased. Having the making list meant that I knew what I really wanted to make and could be more focused with less buzzzzzz about all the ideas floating around in my head and on the interweb. Having the list of triggers meant that I had something against which I could review all potential purchases. All of these things have made a big big difference to my thinking. But we still have a way to go….. 

We are now nearly five months into the process and I've learnt a lot. One thing I've learnt is that the whole thing is hard. Another is that I really need to practice new habits. 

But in the last week, for some as-yet-unknown reason I've had a little blip. I've practiced my little heart out over the last week. And well, I've also fallen off the wagon.

More about my fall in a minute. But first let's look at where we were at.

A review of the spending so far.  

$5 - Knitting needle gauge 
$10  - Knitting pattern Flet (gee it's pretty) (gee it's as-yet unused)
$39 - Cotton and needles 
$24 - Cotton and pattern tracing stuff 
$10 - Knitting pattern Keel (on the needles)
$52 - Kate Davies new book Yokes (with postage) (again as yet unused)
$67 - Liberty in one of my all time favourite patterns
$54 - Fabric for kids Christmas stockings and cotton
$1.50 - Zip for star cushion
$88 - Wool for the boy's birthday jumper (swatted and ready to go)
Grand total until the fall was $350

The great thing about having this list and reviewing it is that I can see that for the most part I am on the right track. The only thing that I really was off base with was probably the pattern Flet and Yokes. Everything else is either being used or will be used soonish. 

This makes me happy!

A little pre-fall information

Before we go into what I did, I think it's really important to note that in the moment I've managed to justify all of it. I have been masterful in my reasoning and my rationale. It's been really interesting to look back on - now that the moment has passed - I'm really quite admiring of how I justified it.

In addition to the falling-of-wagonness you will hear about in a moment, I also spent a good thirty minutes with $90 worth, of (super pretty) wool in a shopping cart, uhmming and ahhhing about whether I should hit the go button. I shouldn't. And I didn't. But I wanted to. A combination of FOMA and wanting to own the pretty. Wanting the thrill of the purchase. An hour after walking away I felt really good. I don't need wool. At the rate I am ripping things out, I have enough yarn to last me at least two years of solid knitting. 

The fall

So what happened. I spent $219 in the last week. And $127 of that was on totally unnecessary stuff that doesn't follow the rules. 

Exhibit A. I spent $77 on new season Nani Iro. It will arrive by mail sometime soon. I did cleverly avoid an old habit of only buying a little bit to make the purchasing less "bad". I purchased enough for a dress. I do have quite a stack of dress fabric - which I showed you in this post. I forgot momentarily that...

“Enough is as good as a feast.”

— Mary Poppins

And so it is. 

Exhibit B. Another purchase that fell into the same category was the 1m of new Cotton and Steel Mustangs I purchased to make the top shown in the photo at the top of the post. I purchased it because I know my kid would love it - but she does have more clothes that she will ever wear out. I can't decide if I care about this one or not. It wasn't FOMA or any of the other reasons. It was joy for the kid. 

Exhibit C. My third and final totally frivolous non-rule-following purchase was that I purchased 1m of another Cotton and Steel Grey Cross fabric. Again it was super pretty. But the reason for purchasing it meant that I came up with a new trigger - "Just in case" purchasing. Hmm. I justified it by saying that I didn't have the right fabric for part of the boys quilt and needed the grey "just in case". I didn't need the grey. At all. 

The final two things were necessary for the making list. $82 for batting for boys quilt and some baby quilts and $8 on cotton. Totally fine.

So all in all - I spent 4.5 months worth of budget in a week. And 2.5 months of that spending was unnecessary and just because I wasn't paying enough attention and really being conscious about why I am doing Stash Less. I'm chalking it up to a learning experience. 

Where does that leave us?

Spending to date since October 1st. About $570. 

What is really annoying about it is that even as I am writing about it I'm still justifying it in my head - "Beautiful Nani Iro that you love is only released once a year (or so)". "Your little girl will totally LOVE the mustangs dress and how fun to be able to do that for her". "The crosses will come in handy". But you know what…..I know, and you know, that none of it was necessary. All of it was excessive. And while I don't want to waste time feeling bad about it, it was a good reminder that I can be very clever at tricking myself when I want to be.

I'm feeling just a little frustrated with the whole idea, with the budget, with the process and with myself. That said, I am also really happy I thought it up, really happy I'm doing it, and really happy I'm learning things. But frustrated none the less. 

Some successes - small but important 

Just so we don't totally finish on a bum note. I wanted to tell you about some successes I'm having. Over the weekend I cut into some Nani Iro I've been hoarding and made the beautiful Alice from Tessuti you see above. And I made a Grainline Hemlock with some cotton that wasn't expensive but that I was holding on to (hoarding) onto "just in case". Feeling totally chuffed with myself for making two things I will wear all the time, and two things that I needed. And two things that I would have previously have had a hard time actually cutting. 

I'd love an update if any of you are working on your own stashes. What you've learned? And if you've had frustrations or setbacks I'd love to hear them too. Setbacks are where it is at today.

In solidarity and wagon-fallingoffedness.

Felicia x

PS. I have now made a Stash Less page that includes all the posts to date in this series. 

Incidental craft in Europe - Part 1

As many of you reading would remember, last year my family went camping. We drove from Denmark to Greece, and then back up through Italy to the UK. I talk a little about how we travelled in that previous post but what I didn't talk about was the craft we saw along the way. 

What do I mean when I say "incidental"craft? 

As we didn't plan our route at all, we often didn't know anything about where we were, until we parked up for the day. Then tourist information or google would fill in the gaps. This, combined with the fact that we were camping with three little kids ;), meant I didn't really have the time (or the headspace) to really delve into the traditions and the history of each individual countries crafting culture. The daily chores of looking after kids, finding food, travelling and camping totally filled our days.  

Some of you reading might think this sounds like crazy talk; with Europe at your feet how could you not take advantage of all the fibre goodness it had to offer. But here's the thing - the goal of this trip was family togetherness, and that meant that everyone's needs had to be considered all of the time. We were asking a lot of our kids - they were only 3, 6 and 7 when we left. Many days the kids were too overexcited/tired/grumpy/hungry/dirty to see the sights that were on our doorstep, let alone go on a trek to see a wool shop. Crazily they don't care about wool. Very occasionally when we stopped in a big city I would purposefully seek something out. But most days generally "incidental" craft was really where it was at.

Crafting tourism is something I think I need to save until they have got bigger or maybe even until they have left home? Those with older kids should chime in here - does it get easier to wool shop?

What they often looked like right before they started to wrestle on the ground in a small pile of bodies. 

So when I did see craft, I was pretty happy. And I realised the other day that I didn't show you anything I found - and that seemed a little crazy. So I've pulled off a few photos of places where craft was clearly visible on the street.

Initially I thought I would do this all in one post. But it's getting a little long so I'll post some more next week. Next up we will have Sarajevo and Albania. 

 

Split, Croatia

Split

This was the first place I really encountered craft at a market, or on the street. The lady in the photo came from a knitting family. She or one of her relatives knitted everything on her stall. I (being the stupid tourist ;)) asked where did her wool come from. "Croatia". Obviously. 

We purchased some socks from her - which had some side toe shaping I really liked and recently copied in the first pair of socks I had made for myself. I also got some super cute slippers for the girls. A little crazy but they love them. 

The wool was fairly rustic and definitely not for the feint hearted. Sadly they only lasted a few months before I wore holes in them. 

Showing the interesting toe shaping that I part copied when I made my Irish Oats recently. 

DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

I was expecting more knitting frankly but I didn't see a single bit. Instead I saw many many gorgeous examples of the famous Dubrovnik embroidery. This stuff is truly amazing. I watched a few women for a minute here and there and managed to buy a few small gifts. I wish I had purchased something for myself! 

Just a random stunning photo of the stunning Dubrovnik. 

Hot and tired kids.

I saw her while walking along the wall - and then made everyone figure out how to wiggle through the backstreets to get to her.

Another view from the wall.

The lady we saw from the wall gave the girls bracelets.

An incredibly bad photo as it was inside but there was an amazing family run business a few streets away from the gate. Their work was a notch or three up from much of what we saw on the street. So incredibly beautiful and detailed. 

This man had the most beautiful pair of hand knit socks - on the day though I felt quite bad for him. It was about 35degrees!

This lady was sewing on the street. 

 

If you want to ask anything about our trip then feel free. I'll do my best to answer.

Felicia x

The Best Hemming Trick Ever (in my opinion)

There was this episode of The Good Wife where in order for anyone to say anything to the presiding judge they had to add "in my opinion" to every statement they made. Anyhoo…. In my opinion this is the best hemming trick of all time! It is a technique for doing a double-folded hem, without any measuring, that is accurate, tidy and simple. 

I use this hemming technique on practically everything - and I generally ignore pattern instructions that tell me something different. The only time I don't use it is when I am making something "special", using a super fine fabric, or something silky or synthetic. Generally as I only use natural fibres this works like a dream. That all said, I am sure there is a professional dressmaking reason why more people don't suggest it, but after 35 years of sewing I can't figure it out. And as most of what I make is my kids clothes, and simple garments like the Scout Tee then this is perfect! It works for skirts and sleeves and pant legs and shirt bottoms - totally multi-purpose. 

I've written a disclaimer down the bottom. Please give it a read. I really want you to be happy.

How to get a super tidy hem with no fuss. 

I should start by staying that this trick really isn't a trick. It is just a super super simple way of ensuring that you get a neat hem with no measuring. I'm sure it has a name somewhere on the interweb and that there will be other tutorials. I just haven't come across them AND I don't come across many people who do hem this way so I thought I would share.

Step 1: Run the basting stitch.

Sew a basting stitch at the point at which you want the hem to be turned up - making sure that the row of basting stitch is twice the width of the finished hem you want. If possible sew the basting stitch in a contrasting colour at least on the right side of the fabric. It doesn't matter what your bobbin cotton is (assuming the bobbin colour is on the wrong side of your fabric). 

The basting stitch on the left was sewed at 1.5cm and the one on the right at 2.5cm. I also do some at about 4 or 5cm - which gives a heavier hem. Contrasting thread on the right side of the fabric.

The key to this whole thing is that you accurately run the basting stitch using the seam guide on your machine. When I am making a wide hem, and the basting stitch is about 5cm from the raw edge, I use a piece of washi tape stuck to my machine as a seam guide. An accurate basting seam is the key!!!

I change the width of the hem depending on the weight of the fabric and obviously the desired length of the sleeve, top, dress etc. On a thinner fabric like a voile I generally run my basting stitch at 1.5cm (or even 1.2cm), and then on something thicker or for the hem of pants, shorts or a dress I might run the basting stitch at 5cm. 

Step 2: Iron up the hem using the basting as a guide.

Iron the hem up using the basting stitch as a guide. The basting stitch should be on the fold exactly. The reason you want a contrasting colour is that you should be able to clearly see the basting stitch on the edge of the fold

Step 3: Fold the raw edge to the fold.

With the fabric sitting on your ironing board - wrong side up - use your thumb and your forefinger to pinch the raw edge of the fabric into the fold and press at the same time. Pin it down and move on.

I kindof pinch the raw edge towards the fold.

You can feel when the raw edge hits the folded edge.

After pinching it together I slide my pointer along my thumb to fold as much of the fabric as I can with one sweep - this is tricky to explain. Give it a go.

Normally I iron as I go. I haven't ironed this yet.

This takes a little practice because it involves doing a couple of things - rolling the fabric exactly to the fold and ironing at the same time  - without burning your fingers. Go slow. Do a tiny bit at a time. Again the key is to make sure that you are accurately hitting the fold. You can do this by feel. There is no need to open the fold up - you can feel it. Just a bit of practice.

Ironed.

This is what it looks like opened out. You don't need to open it out - this photo is just to make it clearer.

Step 4: Sew the hem.

To topstitch down the hem. 
This is another super part of the technique. Because you know the exact measurement of the hem, because it is totally even, as long as you can sew a straight line with some degree of accuracy, you can sew the hem from the right side without worrying you aren't going to catch it. Sewing a hem from the right side of the fabric gives you a more even finish. I usually take my hem measurement and minus 2mm or 3mm from it to give me the measurement that I use to topstitch the hem down. Again washi tape can help. 

To blindstitch.

I would blind stitch on a birthday frock or a nice frock for me. I would still do quite a big hem as I would want the weight to hold down the skirt. 

Prepare as above but then fold back the inside of the hem to do your blind stitch. Google blindstiching if you need to! 

Step 5:

Pull out your basting stitch by pulling gently. When you first remove the basting stitch you may end up with little needle holes. These normally disappear after the first wash and press!

And now to the disclaimer!! As I haven't done this with every fabric and every sewing setup I can't guarantee these tiny holes will disappear. Please check on a scrap of your fabric. As I mentioned above I just want you to be happy in your sewing life! 

UPDATE: I just wanted to add one more photo which might help those of you trying to do the hemming trick around a tight curve for something like a shirt tail hem. Snip a few little notches about a third of the way towards the basting line before folding - as you see in the photo below. It will then sit flat. 

Enjoy!

Felicia x

Around the Traps - Kid's patterns

 

Stash Less in action today my friends. Rather than purchasing patterns that I don't have time to use, I am listing them here, so I can go back to them when I do. 

New stuff I've found or have been meaning to try. 

Just last week I saw this adorable pattern for the first time - the Mini Hudson pants. I so so love the shape of it and am particularly obsessed with the mid calf version. The only issue is that none of my kids like wearing trackies. I don't know why….. wish I did. My last post features me basting the quilt while wearing trackies so it isn't like I haven't been setting an example.

Another pattern that I have never made, but have been meaning to for the longest time, is the Flashback Skinny Tee. Brienne has some gorgeous versions of it here with some fabric paint detailing. I will get to this the next time I need to make some for my boy child. There are so many amazing versions of this tee on the web if you are looking for inspiration. 

Oliver and S has three patterns that I am a little obsessed with and again don't own. The playtime tunic I have mentioned before. And then recently the Bento Tee. So so cute. I'm also loving some of the roller skating dresses I'm seeing around the traps - like this one from Kristin at Skirt as a Top.  She also has made a super cute version of the Mini Hudson pants. 

I also love the Edelweiss Dress by Hey June. I haven't made it but I mean too. There are a few super pretty versions if you google images it.

If you are looking for homemade kids clothes inspiration you can't go past the online magazine Stylo. Goregeous styling, all the patterns are detailed, and it really shows what you can do if you get a little creative.

My other favourite source of inspiration is Kids Clothes Week. I participate now and then when I need a bit of a kick start. It now runs four times a year so there is always one just around the corner. It's free to sign up to their site and then you get access to all the photos and details of the pretty pretty things people are making. It is a sure fire way to find new patterns and get inspired. There are SO. many. gorgeous. patterns in their database. Patterns I hadn't come across before. Having a look at the old photo pool though (if you aren't a signer-uperer) is also an option.

Things that I have talked about before on the blog
 

My favourite sewing book for kids - Happy Handmade

Also in the past I've talked about baby sweaters, my favourite girl cardy's and my favourite girls dress pattern. I've also done a post on the super gorgeous City Gym Shorts which has to be THE best shorts pattern ever, and the beautifully shaped Banyan Tee. 

And finally a totally random post from Brienne about why she sews and knits with a quote I just love. 

I'll be back on Friday with my all-time favourite sewing trick! Until then I'd love to hear your favourite kid patterns?

Felicia x